Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [155]
Käfer Viajes y Turismo (35-4742; www.kafer-titicaca.com; Arequipa 197)
Las Balsas Tours (36-4362; www.balsastours.com; Tacna 240)
Nayra Travel (36-4774, 975-1818; www.nayratravel.com; Lima 419, Office 105)
Sleeping
Travelers arriving by bus at odd hours should know about Hospedaje Terminal Terrestre (36-4737/33; s/d S15/30), inside the very bus station. The views aren’t anything to write home about, but it’s safe and convenient. And how often do you get to experience opening your bedroom door directly onto a bus terminal concourse? A winning combination of surrealism and practicality.
BUDGET
Duque Inn (20-5014; Ayaviri 152; r per person with/without bathroom S20/15) This place is a steal, highly recommended for budget travelers. Archaeologist owner Ricardo Conde takes guests on free tours and at the time of research was in the process of constructing a scale model of an Egyptian pyramid on the hotel’s roof. Eccentric gold! Rooms with shared bathrooms enjoy the best view in Puno at a ridiculously low price. To find it, continue along Ilave for three blocks beyond Huancané and turn right into Ayaviri.
Hospedaje Q’oñi Wasi (36-5784; qoniwasi_puno@hotmail.com; Av La Torre 135; r per person with/without bathroom S20/15) Tucked up a dark alleyway, Q’oñi Wasi has snug, if run-down, older rooms, and a small common kitchen. French is spoken.
Hostal Uros (35-2141; www.hostaluros.com; Valcárcel 135; r per person S30) Recently freshened up, close to the action but quiet and serene, Hostal Uros is damn good value. There’s plenty of room in the light-filled patio to store bicycles or motorbikes. Ask for a room with a window.
Kusillo’s Posada (36-4579; kusillosposada@yahoo.es; Federico More 162; s/d/tr/q with continental breakfast S40/70/105/140; ) Run by the indefatigable Jenny Juño and her wonderful family, this heart-warming homestay has cozy rooms with electric showers. It’s not far from the bus stations, and just a short walk southeast of the Plaza de Armas.
Hotel El Buho (36-6122; Lambayeque 142; www.hotelbuho.com; s/d with breakfast US$20/23) Don’t be put off by the grim exterior. Warm rooms, helpful staff and a groovy patio complete with fountain keep this place full of return guests; reservations are essential. Splurge-worthy for budget travelers.
MIDRANGE
Rates for midrange accommodations include breakfast.
Hostal Pukara (78-4240/28; www.pukaradeltitikaka.com; Libertad 328; s/d S75/120; ) This quirky, rapidly aging hotel leaves no corner undecorated, with an eye-catching four-story-high relief in the entrance, plus murals, unusual tiling and other touches throughout the hallways. Rooms all have cable TV and phones, and are heated and soundproofed. There’s a glass-covered rooftop cafe with a great view.
Posada Don Giorgio (36-3648; dongiorgio@titicacalake.com; Tarapacá 238; s/d S79/110; ) With a charming exterior, a mellow interior and exceptionally comfy rooms, Don Giorgio offers very good value for money. It’s small enough to provide personal service, and rooms have phones, cable TV and deep armchairs.
Colón Inn (35-1432; www.titicaca-peru.com/colon1e.htm; Tacna 290; s/d S108/135; ) Another excellent choice. This is the only hotel in central Puno housed in an unmodernized colonial building – watch your head in the doorways. Rooms are smallish, while shared spaces are sumptuously colonial. Check out the cartoon-style fresco of Puno’s history in the tiny, inviting patio.
Hotel Italia (36-7706; www.hotelitaliaperu.com; Valcárcel 122; s/d/tr S110/150/190; ) Rooms have cable TV, hot showers and heating but vary in quality at this large, well-established midrange hostelry. The long-serving staff is quietly efficient, and the delicious, fairly healthy breakfast includes salty black olives and Puno’s own triangular anise bread.
María Angola Hostal (36-4596; Bolognesi 190; s/d/tr S122/168/210) Situated away from the hustle of the center, the funky, cozy María Angola has a fixation with intricately carved wood paneling and doors. It’s a touch overpriced, but lovers of the South American Bizarre school of hotel