Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [156]
Conde de Lemos Inn (36-9898; www.condelemosinn.com; Puno 675-681; s/d S145/190) Housed in a startlingly jagged, glass-fronted ziggurat, bang on the Plaza de Armas, this small hotel has been recommended by many travelers for its personable staff and high standards.
Casona Plaza Hotel (36-5614; www.casonaplazahotel.com; Arequipa 655; s/d/tr S165/210/240; ) This well-run, central hotel with 64 rooms is one of the largest in Puno, but is often full. All rooms are good and bathrooms are great, but this one is especially for lovers – most of the matrimoniales (matrimonial suites) are big enough to dance the marinera (Peru’s national dance) between the bed and the lounge suite.
Intiqa Hotel (36-6900; www.intiqahotel.com; Tarapacá 272; s/d/tr S180/210/240; ) Jazzy and bright, Intiqa’s refreshingly modern reception area will bring a smile to your face. The superb rooms do not disappoint, with fabulously comfy beds, goose-down quilts, cable TV, indigenous art, and a bathtub in every room. A happy, circus-colored gem of a place.
Hostal La Hacienda (35-6109; www.lahaciendapuno.com; Deustua 297; s/d/tr S210/210/240; ) This colonial-style hotel has lovely, airy common spaces, a mind-bending, Vertigo-style spiral staircase, and a 6th-floor dining room with panoramic views on three sides. After all that, rooms are a bit of a generic letdown, but they’re warm and comfortable with cable TV and phones. Some have bathtubs.
TOP END
Breakfast is included in the rates of top-end hotels.
Casa Andina Puno Tikarani (36-7803; www.casa-andina.com; Independencia 185; r from S307; ) A short walk from the center, this Peruvian chain hotel is in sparkling order, with firm beds, quality furnishings and heating. Walls are decked out in bold primary colors, and stone, tiling and modern decor are harmoniously combined. There are also lofty public areas for lounging, a restaurant and free wi-fi access. Casa Andina has two other hotels in Puno; see the website for details.
Hotel Libertador Lago Titicaca (36-7780, in Lima 01-442-0166; www.libertador.com.pe; Isla Esteves; r/ste S967/1316; ) This five-star local landmark fills its own private island in the western part of Lake Titicaca, connected to Puno by a causeway. Taxis charge about S8 to get here. All of the 108 luxurious rooms and 16 suites have fabulous views out over the lake, but furniture in the suites feels more board meeting than romantic getaway. There are beautiful gardens on the island’s slopes and a collection of pet llamas.
Eating
Tourist haunts huddle together on the glitzy pedestrianized Jirón Lima, and down side passage Calle Grau. Note that many restaurants don’t advertise their menús (set meals), which are cheaper than ordering à la carte.
Locals eat pollo a la brasa (roast chicken) and economical menús on Jirón Tacna between Calles Deustua and Libertad. Api (hot, sweet corn juice) – one of the best comfort foods in the known world – is found in several places on Calle Oquendo between Parque Pino and the Supermercado. Head into any of several places advertising and ask for the regular deal: a hot, syrupy drink, plus a paper-thin, wickedly delicious envelope of deep-fried dough. It will set you back all of S1.50.
If you’re feeling MSG-deprived, head to Calle Arbulú to fill up at a cheap and cheerful chifa (Chinese restaurant).
For self-catering, head to Supermercado Central (Oquendo s/n; 8am-10pm), but be wary of pickpockets.
Vida Natural (Lambayeque 141; lunch/dinner menú S6/15, mains from S8; closed Sat) The grubby, plastic-heavy ambience doesn’t do Vida Natural any favors, but the vegetable-deprived will appreciate its good-value set meals and the long menu, which includes soy versions of Peruvian favorites, from lomo saltado (strips of beef stir-fried with onions, tomatoes, potatoes and chili) to hamburguesas (hamburgers).
Mojsa (36-3182; Lima 394; sandwiches from S10, mains from S18; 8am-10pm) Mojsa lives up to its name, which is Aymara for ‘delicious’. It has a thoughtful range