Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [157]
Tulipans (35-1796; Lima 394; sandwiches from S10, mains from S20) Highly recommended for its yummy sandwiches, big plates of meat and steaming piles of vegetables, cozy Tulipans is warmed by the pizza oven in the corner and the hordes of people swarming through the door.
La Barca (36-4210; Arequipa 754; mains from S20; 9am-4pm) Puno’s best cevichería (ceviche restaurant). The world holds little greater pleasure than swigging down beer in its sunny green courtyard while scoffing piles of delicious marinated fish. The tiradito de cuatro estaciones (Japanese-style ceviche without onions) is the house specialty, and is highly recommended if you like your food picante (hot).
IncAbar (36-8031; Lima 348; mains from S20; 8:30am–10pm) This stylishly low-slung, cheerily chic restaurant does creative international food with a local twist. The massive Andean platter – bread, chips, to-die-for olives, cheese, ham, avocado and more – is a favorite. A deservedly popular stop on the Gringo Trail, as evidenced by the pinboard full of expat business cards on the front wall.
Colors (36-9254; Lima 342; mains from S20; 7am-11pm; ) Colors is Puno’s best kick-back couch cafe – with free wireless, naturally. The Andean-Greek–Middle East–Asian menu features fusion treats such as Andean cheese fondue and smoked trout ravioli in vodka sauce. There are reasonably priced breakfasts and great coffee too – hmm, you could lose a whole day here.
Balcones de Puno (36-5300; Libertad 354; mains from S20) Offers traditional local food with an emphasis on desserts, but what really sets it apart is its nightly show (7:30pm to 9pm),which stands out for the quality and enthusiasm of its performers, and the lack of cheese – no panpipe butchering of El Cóndor Pasa here.
Ukuku’s (Grau 172, 2nd fl; mains from S20) Crowds of travelers and locals thaw out in this toasty restaurant, which dishes up good local and Andean food (try alpaca steak with baked apples, or the quinoa omelet), as well as pizzas, pastas, Asian-style vegetarian fare and espresso drinks.
Keros (36-4602; Lambayeque 131; mains from S20) Low-key Keros has a full bar and is heated by a sometimes-stifling open fire. It’s a great place to try two Peruvian classics, sopa a la criolla (a creamy noodle soup with beef and peppers) and tiradito, both of which it prepares to perfection. Its motto is ‘Eat like an Inca, pay like a peasant.’
Drinking
Central Puno’s nightlife is geared toward tourists, with plenty of lively bars scattered around the bright lights on Jirón Lima, where touts hand out free-drink coupons, and on Jirón Puno, next to the plaza.
Kamizaraky Rock Pub (Grau 158) With our vote for southern Peru’s best watering hole, this place feels like your best friend’s living room. It has a classic-rock soundtrack, unbelievably cool bartenders and liquor-infused coffee drinks essential for staying warm during Puno’s bone-chilling nights. It’s a hard place to leave.
Positive Vibrations (Lima 356; 8pm-late) This rock and reggae travelers’ haunt is always jumping. The enthusiastic young staff all dream of being DJs someday, and friendly service lives up to the promise of the bar’s name. The eye-popping, UV-painted toilet is a little hard on the cortexes by the end of happy hour, but nobody’s complaining.
Smooth Jazz Bar (36-4099; Arequipa 454) Absolutely nothing like its name implies, this tiny hole in the wall (holding 25 at a pinch) wins hearts for its phone-book-like list of drinks: three pages of cocktails and five different kinds of alcoholic hot tea are just the beginning. The music videos blasting from the TV in the corner are more likely to be Rod Stewart than Miles Davis, but 34 different piscos later, who cares?
Entertainment
Ekeko’s (Lima 355, 2nd fl) Travelers and locals alike gravitate to this tiny, ultraviolet dance floor splashed with psychedelic murals. It moves to a thumping mixture of modern beats and old favorites,