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Hotel Wiracocha (22-1014; www.hotelwiracochacusco.com; Cruz Verde 364; s/d/tr/q S75/120/180/255) Hotel Wiracocha’s inviting patio is a haven of colonial charm in a frenetic commercial area. Rooms are varied; many have low ceilings and some are a bit poky, but all have phone and cable TV. Three rooms boast mezzanines and can comfortably accommodate up to five. The eccentrically decorated patios and balconies are a good place to be.

Piccola Locanda (23-6775; www.piccolalocanda.com; Kiskapata 215; s/d without bathroom S80/100, s/d/tr with breakfast S100/130/165) Italian-owned, and founded with the specific purpose of supporting community projects, this place is cool as well as caring, with quixotic, colorful rooms and a cave-like cushioned lounge. Has an in-house responsible-travel operator, and can hook you up with volunteer work. Entrance is on Resbalosa.

Los Aticos (23-1710; www.losaticos.com; Quera 253, Pasaje Hurtado Álvarez; s/d/apt S90/105/120; ) Hidden in an alley, this sleepy, homely place stays under the radar. Rates include a self-service laundry room and a full guest kitchen. The three mini-apartments sleep up to four and are good value for self-catering groups or families. A smaller sister hotel is located on Av Pardo.

Hostal Loreto (22-6352; www.loretohostal.com; Loreto 115; s/d/tr/q S90/135/165/195) This amiable place has four rooms with Inca walls, which make them rather dark and musty – but then how often do you get to sleep next to an Inca wall? Other rooms are bright, and the location is unbeatable, just steps from the Plaza de Armas. The mirrors and the staircase spiraling like a slide in the center create a bit of a funhouse vibe. Singles and doubles include breakfast.

Teatro Inka B&B (24-7372, in Lima 01-976-0523; www.teatroinka.com; Teatro 391; s/d/tr & ste with breakfast S97.50/130/180; ) Classy, colorful and a bit cosmic, Teatro Inka is a well-located gem, offering simple, tasteful rooms with tribal and colonial touches. All rooms are good value, and the penthouse suite is well worth splashing out on. Recommended.

Los Angeles B&B (26-1101; www.losangelescusco.com; Tecsecocha 474; s/d S120/150; ) While the public patio is nothing to write home about, rooms are white and bright, with a light colonial touch to make them classy and interesting. The front corner room, furnished with baronial splendor yet spacious and spare, far outshines other rooms.

El Balcón Hostal (23-6738; www.balconcusco.com; Tambo de Montero 222; s/d/tr with breakfast S120/210/255; ) This attractively renovated building dating from 1630 has just 16 guest rooms, all with balconies. It has a beautiful little garden filled with curiosities and some great views over Cuzco. There’s also a sauna on the premises.

Hostal Corihuasi (23-2233; www.corihuasi.com; Suecia 561; s/d/tr with breakfast S126/165/198) A brisk walk uphill from the main plaza, this cozy guesthouse inhabits a mazelike colonial building with postcard views of the Andes. Amply sized rooms are outfitted in a warm, rustic style with alpaca-wool blankets, hand-woven rugs and solid wooden furnishings. Room 1 is the most in demand for its wraparound windows, which are ideal for soaking up panoramic sunsets.

Hotel El Rosal (23-118; www.hotelcuscoelrosal.com; Cascaparo 116; s/d/tr/q S160/192/224/304) You’ll be greeted with smiling faces at this delightful guesthouse over the road from the Mercado San Pedro. The hostel is run by nuns to help fund the neighboring San Pedro home for girls. It feels like a charming hidden world, with manicured rose gardens, long, dreamy hallways, and a soundtrack of children playing. The building has several courtyard gardens, each more inviting than the last, and 29 guestrooms in a spacious modern annex. Highly recommended.

Hotel los Marqueses (26-4249; www.hotelmarqueses.com; Calle Garcilaso 256; s/d/tr with breakfast from S180/240/300) An air of mystery and romance perfumes this fabulously refurbished colonial villa, built in the 16th century by Spanish conquistadors. Traditional escuela cuzqueña paintings, courtyard fountains and

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