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Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [194]

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balconies with views of the cathedral on the Plaza de Armas will all seduce you. The wood-floored rooms are large and airy; some have split-level sleeping areas and skylights. Most guests here are on package tours.

Also recommended:

Picol Hostal (24-9191; picolhostal@gmail.com; Quera 253, Pasaje Hurtado Álvarez; s/d/tr with breakfast S60/90/105) New and a bit bland, but spick-and-span and trying hard. It’s located amid shops and restaurants in a bustling commercial district, great for travelers who prefer to be in a more ‘local’ area where there’s still plenty of street action.

Andenes de Saphi (22-7561; www.andenesdesaphi.com; Saphi 848; s/d/tr/q S115/186/216/246) At the far end of Saphi, where the city starts to become more rural, this dependable, modern hotel has a rustic wooden construction with fantastic colorful murals in every room.

TOP END

None of the top-shelf hotels on the plaza can be recommended – they are often overpriced, underwhelmingly serviced and full of noisy package groups. There are some respectable, if unexciting, options nearby.

Hotel Royal Inka (23-1067; www.royalinkahotel.com; Plaza Regocijo 299; s S235-312 d S287-364) A cheerily eccentric clash between Old World and New greets you in the lobby: 1970s-style furniture and phones, a hip modern bar and modernist sculptures under a somewhat startling mural of naked jungle dwellers, all presided over by a massive golden Inca head. Rooms are good quality – those in the colonial building are a bit dated but comfortable and luxurious, while the modern ones are big, bright and cheery.

Del Prado Inn (22-442; www.delpradoinn.com; Suecia 310; s/d/tr incl buffet breakfast S263/385/507; ) Del Prado is a very welcome addition, located almost on the Plaza de Armas. The all-professional staff gives highly personalized service, and there are just over a dozen snug rooms reached by elevator. Rooms come with lots of extras, including wooden floors, central heating, bathtubs and wi-fi access. Some rooms have tiny balconies with corner views of the plaza, though these can be noisy, especially on weekends. Best of all, the dining room has original Inca walls.

Los Andes de America (60-6060; www.cuscoandes.com; Calle Garcilaso 150; s/d/tr/q with breakfast S330/390/420/480) A Best Western hotel noted for its buffet breakfast, which includes regional specialties such as mote con queso (cheese and corn) and papa helada (frozen potato). Rooms are warm and comfortable, bathrooms are big and relatively luxurious, and the atrium boasts an impressive scale model of Machu Picchu.

San Blas

BUDGET

Samay Wasi (25-3108; www.samaywasiperu.com; Atocsaycuchi 416; dm/d S24/60; ) You’ll feel like a treehouse-dwelling Ewok in this friendly, rambling hostel clinging precariously to the hillside, hidden up a flight of stairs teetering way above town.

Hospedaje el Artesano de San Blas (26-3968; hospedajeartesano790@hotmail.com; Suytuccato 790; s/d S25/50) Peaceful and falling-down-charming colonial house with a sunny patio and free use of a large and well-equipped kitchen.

Hospedaje Inka (23-1995; http://hospedajeinka.weebly.com; Suytuccato 848; r per person with breakfast S25; ) This scruffy but charming converted hillside farmhouse high above the Plaza San Blas affords some great views. There’s erratic hot water, private bathrooms and a large farm kitchen available for cooking your own meals. Taxis can’t climb the final uphill stretch, so be prepared for a stiff walk.

Pak’arincama Casa Hospedaje (50-1079, 984-37-7275; pakarincama@hotmail.com; Pumapaccha 634; r per person S25) Authentic with a capital A: walk up a chicken- and dog-infested alleyway to get here, and duck under the washing line in the backyard to be introduced to the parrots. Move into one of four basic, clean guest rooms and become part of the Gonzáles family.

Also recommended is Hospedaje Familiar Kuntur Wasi (22-7570; Tandapata 352A; r per person with/without bathroom S35/25), an economical hotel with a star dueña (owner), whose concern for traveler well-being is genuine.

MIDRANGE

Amaru Hostal (22-5933; www.cusco.net/amaru;

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