Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [199]
Maikhana (25-2044; Galerías la Merced, Av El Sol 106, 2nd fl; mains S12-26; 11am–11pm) A friendly, comfy place to enjoy excellent, good-value renditions of all the Indian classics, including a long list of vegetarian dishes.
Jack’s Café (25-4606; Choquechaca 509; breakfast from S12.50, mains from S14; 7:30am-11:30pm) The only food outlet in the world this reviewer considers worth standing in line for, and she’s clearly not alone in her appreciation – the ever-present crowd of hungry travelers waiting outside Western-style, Australian-run Jack’s tells you how popular it is. One breakfast here and you’re hooked. You have been warned.
Victor Victoria (25-2854; Tecsecocha 466; mains from S14; 7am-10pm) Around the corner from the Plaza is this budget restaurant, providing princely portions of primarily Peruvian food. Backpackers can’t recommend it enough, especially for its filling portions.
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CUZCO CUISINE
As elsewhere in Peru, Sunday lunch – with friends, family and a few chelas (slang for beers; you’ll win friends anywhere in Peru with this invaluable piece of vocab) is a major social occasion in Cuzco. Combined with a Sunday drive to the country and a postmeal stroll, it takes up the whole day. If you’re prepared to try something new (and particularly if you’re a keen carnivore with no family history of coronary problems), it’s easy to partake of this slice of local life. Three villages south of town are traditional destinations for this prandial promenade. They’re easily accessible by public transport (Click here), or you can hire a taxi and have it wait for you for around S40.
Tipón is the place to eat cuy (guinea pig), and Saylla is the home of chicharrón (deep-fried pork). In Lucre they’ve been preparing duck in 1001 ways since ancient times, with the recent welcome addition of the best cake shop in the region.
You’ll find the following foods in local restaurants and at festivals in and around Cuzco.
Anticucho The Peruvian answer to the lollipop is beef heart on a stick, with a potato on the end for punctuation. Much more delicious than it sounds – many who try it without realizing it’s heart end up addicted.
Caldo de gallina It’s impossible to find bad soup in Cuzco, but simple, healthy, hearty caldo de gallina (chicken soup) is a standout, and a local favorite hangover breakfast.
Chicharrones Deep-fried chunks of pork, served with corn, mint leaves, fried potato and onion. This one is definitely more than the sum of its parts; get a bit of each ingredient on your fork and experience coronary-inducing heaven. Irresistible – and responsible for the reviewer’s spare tire.
Choclo con queso Choclo are the huge, pale cobs of corn that are typical of the area. Served with a teeth-squeaking chunk of cheese, it’s a great, cheap snack – look out for it in the Sacred Valley.
Cuy Yes, Virginia, they really do eat guinea pig. Nothing to be afraid of (it tastes just like chicken – honestly!), though it’s often served complete with head, which can be, er, disconcerting.
Lechón Suckling pig with plenty of crackling, served with tamales (corn cakes). Another shortcut to a heart attack, but what a way to go.
Don’t be deterred if you don’t like the sounds of these – other meat-, potato- and trout-focused foods are available in the restaurants in each of these towns.
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Real McCoy (26-1111; Plateros 326, 2nd fl; mains from S14; 7am-late; ) Tempts Brits hankering for a taste of home with chips and gravy, PG Tips teabags, real baked beans and roast dinners with Yorkshire pudding. Inviting and chilled out, it offers wi-fi, comfy couches, beanbags and sports on TV for extended relaxation sessions.
Los Perros (Tecsecocha 436; mains S14-20) An Australian-founded godsend, serving Asian/Indian-slanted bar food at stunning prices in an intimate ‘couch bar.’
Aldea Yanapay (25-5134; Ruinas 415, 2nd fl; menú S15, mains