Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [200]
Muse (25-3631, 984-23-1717; Plateros 316, 2nd fl; mains from S20; ) The coolest cafe-bar-restaurant in town, the Muse offers consistently delicious food with lots of vegetarian options, live music every night, an excellent hangover breakfast, very cool staff, great coffee, a good wine list and a rotating display of art – in short, a hard place to leave at any time of day.
Chicha (24-0520; Regocijo 261, 2nd fl; mains S24-40) Celebrity chef Gastón Acurio’s first venture in Cuzco serves up a strangely wide-ranging menu in a too-cool-for-school setting. Burgers, pasta and pizza share space with haute versions of meaty cuzqueño classics such as chicharrones (deep-fried pork) and estofado de res (hearty beef melting off the bone). Naturally, debate rages in Cuzco as to whether it’s worth coming here to pay twice what you would elsewhere, but this reviewer’s experience was eye-rollingly, plate-lickingly positive.
Al Grano (22-8032; Santa Catalina Ancha 398; mains from S26; 10am-9pm Mon-Sat; ) Al Grano has a nonspicy menu of varied Asian food, including great vegetarian options, plus big breakfasts and some of Cuzco’s best coffee. You’re welcome to hang out and enjoy it with cards, games, free wi-fi and a book exchange.
Makayla (23-4806; cnr Loreto & Plaza de Armas, 2nd fl; mains S30-38) A smart and snappy breath of fresh air in the tourist-trap heavy Plaza, Makayla offers a Peruvian-focused menu with fusion touches, evenly weighted between red meat, white meat and vegetarian dishes. Its alitas picantes (spicy chicken wings) and yuquitas a la huancaína (fried yucca sticks with peanut sauce) are particularly fabulous for sharing.
Green’s Organic (24-3399; Santa Catalina Angosta 235, 2nd fl; mains S30-38; 11am-10pm; ) With all-organic food and a bright farmhouse feel, Green’s Organic oozes health. The salads and wraps are fabulously tasty, telling their own story of pesticide-free, free-range ingredients. The atmosphere is calm and uncluttered, with attentive professional staff. The same consortium owns several of Cuzco’s top-end restaurants – Limo, Incanto, MAP Café, Inca Grill and Pacha Papa – all of which have big reputations and receive many recommendations.
Cicciolina (23-9510; Triunfo 393, 2nd fl; snacks from S16, mains from S36; 8am-late) Inhabiting a lofty colonial courtyard mansion, Cicciolina has long held its position as Cuzco’s best restaurant. The eclectic, sophisticated food is divine, all the way from home-marinated olives through squid-ink pasta to melt-in-the-mouth desserts and biscotti. The service is impeccable, and the ambience will make any laid-back globetrotter feel at home. A huge expat favorite; highly recommended.
Inka Wall (25-3498; Santa Catalina Ancha 342; dinner buffet & show per person S50) This is the dinner and show locals come to – that pretty much says it all. They’re probably inspired by the magnificent buffet, which includes Peruvian and international plates and a staggering array of desserts. The show, which consists of 45 minutes of music followed by six regional dances, runs from 8:15pm to 9:45pm nightly. Good value.
San Blas
Govinda Lila’s (Carmen Bajo 225B; menú S5; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Cuzco’s best deal and best-kept secret, Lila’s unassuming vegetarian restaurant offers cheap, clean, fresh fare to a devoted following of office workers and San Blas hippies. Her sporadically available chocolate and banana cake is worth flying to South America for. Highly recommended.
Café Punchay (26-1504; Choquechaca 229; from S7; 8am-11pm; ) A strange mishmash of waffle breakfasts and potato dinners, this vegetarian hole-in-the-wall with a charming terrace area