Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [201]
Juanito’s (Qanchipata 596; from S8; 8am-8pm) Good sandwiches were hard to find in Cuzco until Juanito’s came along. All the traditional favorites are here, plus some fusion treats such as lechón (suckling pig) and lomo saltado (strips of beef stir-fried with onions, tomatoes, potatoes and chili). The inner room could be San Blas’ most inviting lounge hangout.
Picantería María Angola (Choquechaca 292; mains S10-15; 11am-7pm) A good place to try local foods such as ubre (breaded udder), tripa (tripe) or panza apanada (stomach lining), or more appetizing chicharrones and costillares (ribs). Turn right and head up the stairs when you walk in.
Muse, Too (984-76-2602; Tandapata 710; mains S15; 8am-late) The laid-back San Blas version of the center’s iconic cafe-bar, Muse, Too serves up fresh, funky food through the day, big-screen sport and movies in the afternoon, and live music and cocktails at night.
Granja Heidi (23-8383; Cuesta San Blas 525, 2nd fl; mains from S18) Follow the pictures of cows upstairs to this light Alpine cafe with terrific fresh produce, yogurts, cakes and other snacks on offer. The hot breakfasts are gigantic, and can satisfy any carnivorous cravings you may have.
Café Cultural Ritual (68-2223; Choquechaca 140; mains from S18; 7am-10pm) This is a cute little option with a mostly vegetarian menu and yummy desserts. It’s run by an NGO that provides training and employment experience to underprivileged youngsters, so service is happy and haphazard.
Marcelo Batata (Palacio 121; mains from S28; 2-11pm) As if the stunning view from the rooftop terrace, Cuzco’s longest coffee list and a daring array of cocktails weren’t enough, Marcelo Batata’s food is dangerously delicious. Try pasta with ají de gallina (spicy chicken and walnut stew) sauce for an exquisite fusion moment.
Av El Sol & Downhill
Pampa de Castillo is the street near Qorikancha where local workers lunch on Cuzco classics (opposite). Expect lots of caldo de gallina (chicken soup) and chicharrones, deep-fried pork chunks with corn, mint and, of course, potato, in a range of restaurants including Niko’s (inside Pampa de Castillo 365). Across the street, check out the sandwich windows – if you’re feeling especially brave, you could munch out on queso de chancho (pig brawn).
Meli Melo (23-8383; Limacpampa s/n; items from S2.50) A big bakery with meal-sized slabs of reviewer favorite pastel de acelga (a savory tart made with Swiss chard) and some of Cuzco’s best empanadas. Cakes here are fabulous too. The trick is to ignore the colorful ones – they’re all the same bland sponge. Go for anything beige; you won’t go wrong with tres leches (a cake made with three types of milk) or leche asada (flan).
Don Estéban and Don Pancho (25-2526; Av El Sol 765A; items from S4.50; 8am-10pm) The original and still the best. First it was Cuzco’s coolest coffee bar. Then it started baking its own bread and created a generation of ciabatta addicts. Now it has specialty empanadas (pastries) – you must try empanada de ají de gallina before you die. Service is slow, giving you plenty of time to check out the mesmerizing wall display telling the story of the founders.
Moni (23-1029; San Agustín 311; mains S9-14; 8am-9pm) Tiny Moni is much loved for its good-value vegetarian fare, including a mean veg and quinoa curry and other adapted Peruvian dishes. The ambience is fresh and airy. Recommended.
Further Afield
Most popular local restaurants are outside the historic center and focus on lunch; few open for dinner. Don’t expect to encounter any language other than Spanish in these places, but the food is worth the effort! The following are all highly recommended.
Tradiciones Cusqueñas (23-1988; Belén 835; mains S14-25; 11am–10pm) The home of a good Sunday lunch, Cuzco-style. It features jolly, utilitarian decor, huge piles of meat and potatoes, and delicious homemade limonada (lemonade). Come hungry!
Olas Bravas (43-9328; Mariscal Gamarra 11A; mains from S15; 9am-5pm) Most cuzqueños think Olas Bravas