Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [202]
Señor Carbón (24-4426; Urb Magisterio Segunda Etapa H5; buffet S35; lunch & dinner) The set deal at Señor Carbón (which translates as ‘Lord Coal’!) is a carnivore’s dream – all the meat you can eat, cooked to your liking, plus salad bar. If you can still fit it in, there’s a scoop of ice cream for dessert.
Return to beginning of chapter
DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT
Clubs open early, but crank up a few notches after about 11pm. Happy hour is ubiquitous and generally entails two-for-one on beer or certain mixed drinks.
In popular discotecas (beware the word ‘nightclub’ – it is often used in Peru to indicate a brothel), especially right on the Plaza de Armas, both sexes should beware of drinks being spiked.
Cross Keys, Norton Rats and Paddy Flaherty’s are good places to track down those all-important soccer matches, with satellite TVs more or less permanently tuned into sports.
The tried-and-true stops on the big night out in Cuzco are discotecas Mythology, Inka Team, Roots, Ukuku’s and Mama Africa.
* * *
IS THAT A TOAD IN YOUR BEER?
Ever wondered what cuzqueños do to relax instead of whiling away the hours over a game of darts or pool in the local bar? Well, next time you’re in a picantería (local restaurant) or quinta (house serving typical Andean food), look out for a strange metal sapo (frog or toad) mounted on a large box and surrounded by various holes and slots. Men will often spend the whole afternoon drinking chicha (fermented corn beer) and beer while competing at this old test of skill in which players toss metal disks as close to the toad as possible. Top points are scored for landing one smack in the mouth. Legend has it that the game originated with Inca royals, who used to toss gold coins into Lake Titicaca in the hopes of attracting a sapo, believed to possess magical healing powers and to have the ability to grant wishes.
* * *
Central Cuzco
Indigo (Tecsecocha 2, 2nd fl; noon-late) Indigo is the perfect bar to warm up for a big night out, with fresh Thai and Peruvian food (mains from S15), good coffee, games, hookah pipes and famous mojitos. Genuinely friendly staff, comfy couches, an open fire and a seriously cool circus vibe (there are swings!) make it hard to move on. Highly recommended.
Bullfrogs (Huarancalqui 185) This gloriously glamorous new place, run by high-profile hipsters, offers a bit of everything. There’s cafe service from breakfast until 11pm, live music every night, billiards, beanbags, fairy lights and hookah pipes. Open early till late.
Paddy Flaherty’s (24-7719; Triunfo 124; 11am-late) This cramped little Irish pub is packed with random memorabilia, TVs, a working train set and homesick European travelers eating excellent-value hot sandwiches. Happy hours are from 7pm to 8pm and 10pm to 10:30pm.
Cross Keys (Triunfo 350; 10am-late; ) Cross Keys is the most established expat and traveler watering hole in town. It’s smothered in the trappings of a typical British pub, with leather barstools and plenty of dark wood. As well as a huge list of British beer, it offers good-value comfort food. Some say the S15 steak is the best-value meal in town.
Norton Rats (cnr Santa Catalina Angosta & Plaza de Armas, 2nd fl; 7am-late) Run by a motorcycle enthusiast, this down-to-earth bar overlooking the Plaza de Armas has the best damn burgers in town. It’s also got TVs, darts and billiards to help you work up a thirst.
Pepe Zeta (Tecsecocha s/n; 7pm-late Tue-Sat) The place for cuzqueños to see and be seen, Pepe Zeta is a cool and breezy, place with bamboo decor and a bewildering array of unusual, uncomfortable yet fascinating seating.
Mythology (Portal de Carnes 300; 8pm-late) The iconic nightspot