Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [210]
A multitude of travel agencies in Cuzco offer whirlwind tours of the Sacred Valley, stopping at markets and the most significant archaeological sites, but even if you only have a day or two to spare, it’s immeasurably rewarding to explore this peaceful, often overlooked corner of the Andes at your own leisure. Visiting the archaeological sites of Pisac, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero requires a boleto turístico (Click here), which can be bought directly from the guards at the sites.
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PISAC
084 / pop 900 / elev 2715m
Lying 33km northeast of Cuzco by paved road, Pisac is the most convenient starting point for a visit to the Sacred Valley. There are two distinct parts to Pisac (also spelled Pisaq): the colonial village lying beside the river and the Inca fortress perched dramatically on a mountain spur above.
Information
There’s an ATM in the Plaza de Armas. There are slow cybercafes around the plaza and a mini-supermarket on Bolognesi.
Sights & Activities
Pisac is known far and wide for its craft market, by far the biggest and most touristy in the region. Official market days are Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, when tourist buses descend on the town in droves. However, the market has taken over Pisac to such an extent that it fills the Plaza de Armas and surrounding streets every day; visit on Monday, Wednesday, Friday or Saturday if you want to avoid the worst of the crowds.
Huge clay ovens for baking empanadas and other goodies and castillos de cuyes (miniature castles inhabited by guinea pigs) are found in many nooks and crannies, particularly in Mariscál Castilla. Horno Típico de Santa Lucia (Manuel Prado s/n) unites both of these with an artesanía (crafts) shop. If, for some strange reason, you only have five minutes in Pisac, spend it here – you’ll get a pretty good feel for the place.
At time of research, the INC (Instituto Nacional de Cultura), in a characteristically controversial move, had demolished the church in the main square in order to reconstruct it in colonial style. Masses have moved to a nearby chapel and are worth tracking down. If you’re around on a Sunday, hang around just before 11am, when Mass is celebrated in Quechua. Traditionally dressed locals descend from the hills to attend, including men in traditional highland dress blowing horns and varayocs (local authorities) with silver staffs of office.
Club Royal Inka, about 1.5km out of town, is a fabulous place to while away an afternoon. For S10 admission, you get to swim in the be-fountained Olympic-sized indoor pool, lounge around any number of grassy areas, and pose by the ornamental duck pond. There’s also a restaurant, a trout pond and facilities for barbecues, billiards, table tennis, volleyball, tennis and sapo (Click here).
PISAC RUINS
This hilltop Inca citadel (admission with boleto turístico; dawn-dusk) lies high above the village on a triangular plateau with a plunging gorge on either side. Though it’s a truly awesome site, you’ll see relatively few tourists here, except midmorning on Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday, when it becomes flooded with tour groups.
To get here, either walk up the steep but spectacular 4km trail from town, or hire a taxi from near the bridge into town to drive you up the 7.5km paved road (S20 one way, or S25 return with two hours’ waiting time).
Walking takes about two hours up and 1½ hours back. It’s highly worthwhile, but undeniably grueling – steeper than, and recommended training for, the Inca Trail! Taking a taxi up and walking back is a good option.
The footpath to the site starts from above the west side of the church. There are many crisscrossing trails, but if you keep heading upward toward the terracing, you won’t