Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [211]
The most impressive thing about the Pisac ruins is the agricultural terracing, which sweeps around the south and east flanks of the mountain in huge and graceful curves, almost entirely unbroken by steps (which require greater maintenance and promote erosion). Instead, the terracing is joined by diagonal flights of stairs made of flagstones set into the terrace walls. Above the terraces are cliff-hugging footpaths, watched over by caracara falcons and well defended by massive stone doorways, steep stairs and a short tunnel carved out of the rock. Vendors meet you at the top with drinks, and after carrying the bottles this far, they certainly deserve to make a few soles.
This dominating site guards not only the Urubamba valley below, but also a pass leading into the jungle to the northeast. Topping the terraces is the site’s ceremonial center, with an intihuatana (literally ‘hitching post of the sun’; an Inca astronomical tool), several working water channels, and some painstakingly neat masonry in the well-preserved temples. A path leads up the hillside to a series of ceremonial baths and around to the military area. Looking across the Kitamayo gorge from the back of the site, you’ll also see hundreds of holes honeycombing the cliff wall. These are Inca tombs that were plundered by huaqueros (grave robbers), and are now completely off-limits to tourists.
The site is large and warrants several hours of your time.
Festivals & Events
Pisac is renowned for its celebration of La Virgen del Carmen in mid-July. Pisac or Paucartambo (Click here) are the places to be from around July 15 to July 18.
Sleeping
Cheap guesthouses are scattered on and around the main plaza. There are several foreign-run, boutique, mystical/spiritual retreats on the outskirts of town.
Hospedaje Beho (20-3001; hospedajebeho@yahoo.es; Intihuatana 113; r per person with/without bathroom S30/15) On the path to the ruins, this family-run handicrafts shop offers no-frills lodging with warm showers. The raggedy, rambling garden is a tranquil haven from the madness of the market streets just outside.
Club Royal Inka (20-3064, 20-3066, camping per person S20) Camping doesn’t get any better than this. For S20, you get to pitch a tent in your own designated, fenced-off site with a fireplace, a light and a power plug, and enjoy all the amenities of the club (Click here), including the Olympic-size pool.
Hospedaje Kinsa Ccocha (20-3110; Arequipa 307A; r per person with/without bathroom S40/30) Rustic and gently colorful, with a fertile fig tree in its stony patio, this laid-back place close to the plaza has a nice vibe and lots of thoughtful touches, such as plenty of power plugs and hot water in sinks, not just showers.
Pisac Inn (20-3062; www.pisacinn.com; Plaza Constitución; d with/without bathroom S150/120) Recognizable by its funky geometric designs, this plaza hotel has a pretty courtyard and rustic rooms with hand-painted, indigenous-inspired murals. German, English and French are spoken. Rates include breakfast.
Royal Inka Hotel Pisac (20-3064, 20-3066; www.royalinkahotel.com; s/d with breakfast S187/270; ) About 1.5km from the plaza up the road to the ruins, this large converted hacienda is impressive but endearingly un-splendid – more comfy than commanding. Rooms are generous, many with views of the ruins, and it’s all surrounded by lovingly kept flower beds and conservatories. Guests can access the facilities of Club Royal Inka across the road, plus the on-site spa and Jacuzzi. A highly worthwhile splurge.
Eating
El Antojito (79-7525; menú S3.50; Amazonas s/n; 7am-9pm) Offers an exemplary bargain menú – it’s one of the best deals in the Sacred Valley.
Restaurante Valle Sagrado (20-3009; menú S8-15; Amazonas s/n; lunch & dinner) The menú here is somewhat fancier and more foreigner friendly.
Blue Llama (Plaza Constitución; www.bluellamacafe.com; menú S18.50, mains from S10; 9am-9pm) Blue