Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [218]
TRAIN
Ollantaytambo is a transport hub between Cuzco and Machu Picchu, due to the fact that the cheapest and quickest way to travel between Cuzco and Machu Picchu is to catch a combi between Cuzco and Ollantaytambo (two hours), and then the train between Ollantaytambo and Aguas Calientes (two hours).
PeruRail (www.perurail.com) has more than a dozen departures each way per day – check the website for exact times and costs, which vary from S38 to S192, depending on departure time and type of train. The Vistadome train costs more, but you can see the spectacular gorge scenery between Ollantaytambo and Aguas Calientes just as well from the cheaper Backpacker train.
Combis meet trains at the station and will get you back to Cuzco in about two hours for S7.
The PeruRail ticket office just outside Ollantaytambo’s train station is open from 5am to 8pm every day. Show up at least one day beforehand to buy tickets; during high season, make reservations as far in advance as possible. Buy a return ticket – the vast number of people who hike to Machu Picchu, then catch the train back to Cuzco means that trains out of Aguas Calientes are much fuller than trains into it.
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MACHU PICCHU & THE INCA TRAIL
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AGUAS CALIENTES
084 / pop 1000 / elev 2410m
Also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo, this town lies in a deep gorge below the ruins, enclosed by towering walls of stone cliff and cloud forest, and divided by two rushing rivers. The location is eye-poppingly gorgeous – that’s the good news. The bad news is that all travelers to and from Machu Picchu must pass through here, so Aguas Calientes is about as touristy a town as you’ll ever come across. Come prepared for high prices and a sea of touts, keep your eyes on the hills and reflect on how rare it is to be in a town with no car access, and you’ll find a way to love Aguas Calientes. Many choose to overnight here to avoid being engulfed by the hordes of day-trippers arriving from Cuzco by train each morning. Only those who sleep here or walk the Inca Trail get to catch sunrise at Machu Picchu.
Orientation
The footpath from the train station to the Machu Picchu bus stop is stepped. Wheelchairs should be directed across the small bridge to Sinchi Roca and through the center of town.
Information
There’s a helpful branch of iPerú (21-1104; Edificio del Instituto Nacional de Cultura, Pachacutec, cuadra 1; 9am-1pm & 2-8pm) near the Machu Picchu ticket office (5am-10pm). There’s currently one ATM, at BCP (Av Imperio de los Incas s/n), but it often runs out of money, particularly on weekends. Another ATM, on Av Imperio de los Incas, was planned at the time of research. Currency and traveler’s checks can be exchanged in various places at highly unfavorable rates, but it’s best to bring plenty of Peruvian currency with you from Cuzco. Pay phones and cybercafes are scattered around the town, and there’s a small post office (Colla Raymi s/n). There’s a medical center (21-1005; Av Imperio de los Incas s/n; emergencies 24hr) by the train tracks.
Sights & Activities
By Puente Ruinas, at the base of the footpath to Machu Picchu, Museo de Sitio Manuel Chávez Ballón (admission S21; 9am-5pm) has superb information, in Spanish and English, on archaeological excavations of Machu Picchu and Inca building methods. Stop here before or after the ruins to get a sense of context (and to enjoy the air-conditioning and soothing music if you’re walking back from the ruins after hours in the sun!) There’s a small botanical garden outside, down a nifty, nerve-testing set of Inca stairs.
Weary trekkers soak away their aches and pains in the town’s hot springs (admission S10; 5am-8:30pm), 10 minutes’ walk up Pachacutec from the train tracks. These tiny, natural thermal springs, from which Aguas Calientes derives its name, are nice enough but far from the best in the area (that would be Santa Teresa’s Cocalmayo), and get scungy by late morning. Towels can be rented