Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [219]
For those who still have energy left for trekking, the hike up steep, toothlike minimountain Putucusi, directly opposite Machu Picchu, is highly recommended. Follow the railway tracks about 250m west of town and you’ll see a set of stairs; this is the start of a well-marked trail. Parts of the walk are up ladders, which get slippery in the wet season, but the view across to Machu Picchu is worth the trek. Allow three hours.
Sleeping
Bargain hospedajes can be found in the area uphill of the souvenir market; few are cheaper than Hospedaje los Caminantes and Hostal Joe.
BUDGET
Municipal campground (camping per tent S15) This small, charming campground has toilets, showers and kitchen facilities for rent. It’s a 20-minute walk downhill from the center of town on the road to Machu Picchu, before the bridge.
Hospedaje los Caminantes (21-1007; Av Imperio de los Incas 140; per person with/without bathroom S25/15) Well, it ain’t much to look at, but this big, multistory guesthouse offers rooms and bathrooms that are big and clean, with comfortable beds and quite reliable hot water. The train hooting directly outside your window at 7am is an unmissable wake-up call.
Hostal Joe (38-3512; Mayta Cápac 103; per person S20) Uphill from the plaza, friendly Hostal Joe’s bare, cell-like rooms are far from fancy but offer unbeatable value in a town where true bargains are harder to find than Inca gold.
MIDRANGE
Hostal Mayurina (77-7247; www.hostalmayurina.com; Hermanos Ayar s/n; s/d/tr with breakfast S90/120/180) Sparkling new and keen to please, Mayurina is nothing if not airy, with an open-air reception area and spiral staircase. Rooms have phones and televisions.
Machupicchu Hostal (21-1212; reservas@siahotels.com; Av Imperio de los Incas s/n; s/d with breakfast S122/175) One of the tidy midrange inns right next to the train tracks, this place has a small flower-festooned interior courtyard. The noise from other guests echoes endlessly, and you will certainly hear every train that goes by, but it’s still decent value.
Wiracocha Inn (21-1088; wiracocha-inn@peru.com; Wiracocha s/n; s & d/tr/q S195/240/285) On a side street crowded with midrange hotels, this newer option has well-kept and polished rooms, amiable service and a sheltered patio area near the river. In some rooms you’ll be lulled to sleep by the Andean mountain waters rushing by.
Presidente Hotel (21-1065; reservas@siahotels.com; Av Imperio de los Incas s/n; d S210, d/tr with view S227/262) A solid, professional option. It’s worth paying the extra for a room with a view, not just for the outlook over the river but to get as far from the train tracks as possible. Rates include breakfast.
Rupa Wasi (21-1101; www.rupawasi.net; Huanacaure s/n; d/ste with breakfast S210/300) Hidden away up a steep flight of stairs, Rupa Wasi clings to the hillside like a fairytale castle, all teetering wooden stairways and mysterious stone pathways. Mossy rocks and jungle plants are part of its structure. The atmosphere is dreamy and staff can be, too – it’s all part of the hippie-paradise feel. Two-bedroom suites are great for families. Extra beds cost S90.
La Cabaña Hostal (21-1048; Pachacutec s/n; s & d/tr with breakfast S225/285; ) Further uphill than most of the hotels is this popular, airy spot, which has woody, rustic-feel rooms with phones and heating, and free internet access. Buffet breakfast in the colorful, cushioned restaurant is included.
Gringo Bill’s (21-1046; www.gringobills.com; Colla Raymi 104; s & d/jr ste/ste/family ste S225/315/405/450) One of the original places for tourists to stay in Aguas Calientes, multilayered Gringo Bill’s continues to charm with its white-walled, flower-bedecked open spaces and comfortable, uniquely decorated rooms. At time of research it was undergoing a major modernization, and may have an on-site restaurant and pisco bar by the time you read this. The two-bedroom family suite sleeps up to five.
TOP END
Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel