Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [224]
INCA DRAWBRIDGE
A scenic but level walk from the Hut of the Caretaker of the Funerary Rock takes you right past the top of the terraces and out along a narrow, cliff-clinging trail to the Inca drawbridge. In under a half-hour’s walk, the trail gives you a good look at cloud-forest vegetation and an entirely different view of Machu Picchu. This walk is recommended, though you’ll have to be content with photographing the bridge from behind a barrier meters above it, as someone crossed the bridge some years ago and tragically fell to their death.
CERRO MACHU PICCHU
A 1½- to two-hour climb brings you to the top of Machu Picchu hill, to be rewarded with the site’s most extensive view – along the Inca trail to Wiñay Wayna and Phuyupatamarka, down to the valley floor and the impressive terracing near KM104 (where the two-day Inca Trail begins) and across the site of Machu Picchu itself. This walk is more spectacular than Wayna Picchu, and less crowded. Allow yourself plenty of time to enjoy the scenery (and catch your breath!). Recommended.
WAYNA PICCHU
Wayna Picchu is the small, steep mountain at the back of the ruins. Wayna Picchu is normally translated as ‘Young Peak,’ but the word picchu, with the correct glottal pronunciation, refers to the wad in the cheek of a coca-leaf chewer.
At first glance, it would appear that Wayna Picchu is a difficult climb but, although the ascent is steep, it’s not technically difficult. Beyond the central plaza between two open-fronted buildings is a registration booth, where you have to sign in. Note that access to Wayna Picchu is limited to 400 people per day – the first 200 in line are let in at 7am, and another 200 at 10am. Lines are long and competition for places is fierce – get here early if you’re serious about doing this climb. Cerro Machu Picchu is a very good alternative if you miss out (or simply don’t feel like lining up to climb a hill).
The 45- to 90-minute scramble up a steep footpath takes you through a short section of Inca tunnel. Take care in wet weather as the steps get dangerously slippery.
Part way up Wayna Picchu, a marked path plunges down to your left, continuing down the rear of Wayna Picchu to the small Temple of the Moon. The trail is easy to follow, but involves steep sections, a ladder and an overhanging cave, where you have to bend over to get by. The descent takes about an hour, and the ascent back to the main Wayna Picchu trail longer. The spectacular trail drops and climbs steeply as it hugs the sides of Wayna Picchu before plunging into the cloud forest. Suddenly, you reach a cleared area where the small, very well-made ruins are found. From the Temple of the Moon, another cleared path leads up behind the ruin and steeply onward up the back side of Wayna Picchu.
Sleeping & Eating
Most people either arrive on day trips from Cuzco or stay in Aguas Calientes.
Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge (984-81-6953; www.sanctuarylodgehotel.com; standard/mountain view/ste US$852/1009/1440) is the only place to stay at Machu Picchu itself and is criminally overpriced. There is no earthly reason to stay here – you can catch the bus up from Aguas Calientes in time to be here when the site opens – but it’s still often full, so book ahead.
Getting There & Around
From Aguas Calientes, buses for Machu Picchu leave from a ticket office along the main road for the tightly winding 8km trip up the mountain (S21, 25 minutes each way). Departures are frequent, starting at 5:30am and finishing at 2.30pm. Buses return from the ruins when full, with the last departure at 5:45pm.
Otherwise, it’s a 20-minute walk from Aguas Calientes to Puente Ruinas, where the road to the ruins crosses the Río Urubamba, near the museum. A breathtakingly steep but well-marked trail climbs another 2km up to Machu Picchu, taking about an hour to hike (less coming down!). At the time