Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [225]
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THE INCA TRAIL
The most famous hike in South America, the four-day Inca Trail, is walked by thousands every year. Although the total distance is only about 43km, the ancient trail laid by the Incas from the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu winds its way up and down and around the mountains, snaking over three high Andean passes en route, which have collectively led to the route being dubbed ‘the Inca Trial.’ The views of snowy mountain peaks, distant rivers and ranges, and cloud forests flush with orchids are stupendous – and walking from one cliff-hugging pre-Columbian ruin to the next is a mystical and unforgettable experience. Except for the sad fact, of course, that you’ll never have a moment’s peace to really soak it all up, due to the other 499 people walking the trail with you.
Most trekking agencies run buses to the start of the trail near the village of Chilca at Piscacucho, aka Km 82 on the railway to Aguas Calientes.
After crossing the Río Urubamba (2200m) and taking care of registration formalities, you’ll climb gently alongside the river to the trail’s first archaeological site, Llactapata (Town on Hillside), before heading south down a side valley of the Río Cusichaca. (If you start from Km 88, turn west after crossing the river to see the little-visited site of Q’ente (Hummingbird), about 1km away, then return east to Llactapata on the main trail.)
The trail leads 7km south to the hamlet of Wayllabamba (Grassy Plain; 3100m), near which many tour groups will camp for the first night. You can buy bottled drinks and high-calorie snacks here, and take a breather to look over your shoulder for views of the snowcapped Nevado Verónica (5750m).
Wayllabamba is situated near the fork of Ríos Llullucha and Cusichaca. The trail crosses the Río Llullucha, then climbs steeply up along the river. This area is known as Tres Piedras (Three White Stones), though these boulders are no longer visible. From here it is a long, very steep 3km climb through humid woodlands.
The trail eventually emerges on the high, bare mountainside of Llulluchupampa, where water is available and the flats are dotted with campsites, which get very cold at night. This is as far as you can reasonably expect to get on your first day, though many groups will actually spend their second night here.
From Llulluchupampa, a good path up the left-hand side of the valley climbs for a two- to three-hour ascent to the pass of Warmiwañusca, also colorfully known as ‘Dead Woman’s Pass.’ At 4198m above sea level, this is the highest point of the trek, and leaves many a seasoned hiker gasping. From Warmiwañusca, you can see the Río Pacamayo (Sunrise River) far below, as well as the ruin of Runkurakay halfway up the next hill, above the river.
The trail continues down a long and knee-jarringly steep descent to the river, where there are large campsites at Paq’aymayo. At an altitude of about 3500m, the trail crosses the river over a small footbridge and climbs toward Runkurakay (Basket-Shaped Building), a round ruin with superb views. It’s about an hour’s walk away.
Above Runkurakay, the trail climbs to a false summit before continuing past two small lakes to the top of the second pass at 3950m, which has views of the snow-laden Cordillera Vilcabamba. You’ll notice a change in ecology as you descend from this pass – you’re now on the eastern, Amazon slope of the Andes and things immediately get lusher. The trail descends to the ruin of Sayaqmarka (Dominant Town), a tightly constructed complex perched on a small mountain spur, which offers incredible views. The trail continues downward and crosses an upper tributary of the Río Aobamba (Wavy Plain).
The trail then leads on across an Inca causeway and up a gentle climb through