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Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [229]

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and also got the thumbs-up in discussions with porters. No doubt there are other conscientious operators out there; these are the ones we were able to verify. Do your own research, and let us know what you find out.

These companies offer treks as well as tours around Peru.

Amazonas Explorer (25-2846; www.amazonas-explorer.com)

Aracari (in Lima 01-651-2424; www.aracari.com)

Eco Inka (22-4050; www.ecoinka.com)

Explorandes (in Lima 01-715-2323; www.explorandes.com)

GAP (in North America 1-416-260-0999; www.gapadventures.com)

Intrepid Adventures (in Australia 61-3-9473-2626; www.intrepidtravel.com)

Peruvian Odyssey (22-2105; www.peruvianodyssey.com; Pasaje Pumaqchupan 196)

Tambo Trek (23-7718; www.tambotreks.net)

These companies are Cuzco-based trekking specialists.

Andina Travel (25-1892; www.andinatravel.com; Plazoleta Santa Catalina 219)

Eco Trek Peru (24-7286; www.ecotrekperu.com; Atocsaycuchi 599)

Naty’s Travel (26-1811; www.natystravelcusco.com; Triunfo 342)

Peru Treks (22-2722; www.perutreks.com; Av Pardo 540)

Peruvian Highland Trek (24-2480; www.peruvianhighlandtrek.com; Calle del Medio 139)

Alternative Routes to Machu Picchu

For more information on the following hikes, the Alternative Inca Trails Information Packet from the South American Explorers Club (Click here) is a great resource.

Two-Day Inca Trail

This 16km version of the Inca Trail gives a fairly good indication of what the longer trail is like. It’s a real workout, and passes through some of the best scenery and most impressive ruins and terracing of the longer trail.

It’s a steep three- or four-hour climb from Km 104 to Wiñay Wayna, then another two hours or so on fairly flat terrain to Machu Picchu.

You then spend the night in a hostel in Aguas Calientes, and the next day visiting Machu Picchu, so it’s really only one day of walking. The average price is US$270 to US$370.

Lares Valley Trek

This is not a specific track as such, but a walk along any of a number of different routes to Ollantaytambo through the dramatic Lares Valley. Starting at natural hot springs, the route wanders through rural Andean villages, lesser-known Inca archaeological sites, lush lagoons and river gorges. You’ll finish by taking the train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes. Although this is more of a cultural trek than a technical trip, the mountain scenery is breathtaking, and the highest mountain pass (4450m) is certainly nothing to sneeze at. The average price is US$300 to US$430.

Salkantay Trek

A longer, more spectacular trek, with a slightly more difficult approach to Machu Picchu than the Inca Trail. Its highest point is a high pass of over 4700m near the magnificent glacier-clad peak of Salkantay (6271m; ‘Savage Mountain’ in Quechua). From here you descend in spectacular fashion to the vertiginous valleys of the subtropics. It takes five to seven days to get to Machu Picchu, and the average price is US$350 to US$500. Mountain Lodges of Peru (23-6069; http://mountainlodgesofperu.com) has pioneered a luxury approach to this trek, offering high-quality guiding and comfortable lodges each night.


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CUZCO TO PUNO

The rickety railway and the paved road to Lake Titicaca shadow each other as they both head southeast from Cuzco. En route you can investigate ancient ruins and pastoral Andean towns that are great detours for intrepid travelers who want to leave the Gringo Trail far behind. Most of the following destinations can be reached on day trips from Cuzco; for points of interest closer to Puno, Click here. Inka Express and Turismo Mer run luxury bus tours (Click here) between Cuzco and Puno that visit some but not all of these places. Local and long-distance highway buses run more frequently along this route and are less expensive.


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TIPÓN

A demonstration of the Incas’ mastery over their environment, this extensive Inca site (entry with boleto turístico; 7am-6pm) about 30km from Cuzco, just before Oropesa, consists of some impressive terracing at the head of a small valley and boasts an

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