Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [230]
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PIQUILLACTA & RUMICOLCA
Literally translated as ‘the Place of the Flea,’ Piquillacta (entry with boleto turístico; 7am-6pm) is the only major pre-Inca ruin in the area. It was built around AD 1100 by the Wari culture. It’s a large ceremonial center of crumbling two-story buildings, all with entrances that are strategically located on the upper floor. It is surrounded by a defensive wall. The stonework here is much cruder than that of the Incas, and the floors and walls were paved with slabs of white gypsum, of which you can still see traces. On the opposite side of the road about 1km further east is the huge Inca gate of Rumicolca, built on Wari foundations. The cruder Wari stonework contrasts with the Inca blocks. It’s interesting to see indigenous people working with the mud that surrounds the area’s swampy lakes – the manufacture of adobe (mud bricks) is one of the main industries of this area.
Urcos-bound buses from Cuzco pass by both sites.
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ANDAHUAYLILLAS
084 / pop 840 / elev 3123m
Don’t confuse this place with Andahuaylas, west of Cuzco. Andahuaylillas is more than 45km southeast of Cuzco, about 7km before the road splits at Urcos. This pretty Andean village is most famous for its lavishly decorated Jesuit church (admission S5; 7am-5:30pm), which is almost oppressive in its baroque embellishments. The church dates from the 17th century and houses many carvings and paintings, including a canvas of the Immaculate Conception attributed to Esteban Murillo. There are reportedly many gold and silver treasures locked in the church, and the villagers are all involved in taking turns guarding it 24 hours a day. Is the rumor true or not? All we can tell you is that the guards take their job very seriously.
Near the church are the shop of the Q’ewar Project, a women’s cooperative that makes distinctive dolls clad in traditional costumes, and the eclectic Museo Ritos Andinos (admission by donation; 7am-6pm), whose somewhat random displays include a mummified child and an impressive number of deformed craniums.
Hospedaje Policlinico El Sol (in Cuzco 084-22-7264; Garcilaso 514; dm S30, d S50-60) has accommodations in a colonial house, and also offers massage and medical treatments. Chiss Hospedaje (Quispicanchi 216, r per person from S15) offers basic accommodation.
To reach Andahuaylillas (S7, one hour), take any Urcos-bound bus from the terminal just off Av de la Cultura in Cuzco.
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RAQCHI
084 / pop 320 / elev 3480m
The little village of Raqchi, 125km southeast of Cuzco, is wrapped around an Inca ruin (admission S10) that looks from the road like a strange alien aqueduct. These are the remains of the Temple of Viracocha, which was once one of the holiest shrines in the Inca empire. Twenty-two columns made of stone blocks helped support the largest-known Inca roof; most were destroyed by the Spanish, but their foundations are clearly seen. The remains of many houses and storage buildings are also visible, and reconstruction is an ongoing process.
The people of Raqchi are charming, kind and witty. They’re also environmentally conscious: at time of research their latest project was trying to become plastic-bag free. And they are famous potters – many of the ceramics on sale in the markets of Pisac and Chinchero come from here.
You can experience life in Raqchi by organizing a homestay (984-82-0598, 984-67-9466; raqchituors55@hotmail.com; per person S30). Several families offer accommodation in basic but comfortable guestrooms,