Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [232]
SIGHT AND ACTIVITIES
Baños Termales Cocalmayo (admission S10, camping per tent S5; 24 hr) is 4km from town. These stunningly landscaped, council-owned natural hot springs are truly a world-class attraction. As if huge, warm pools and a natural shower straight out of a jungle fantasy weren’t enough, you can buy beer and snacks and even camp in the gorgeous grassy grounds. The astonishing fact that the baths are open 24 hours has caused many delirious travelers to think they have in fact died and gone to heaven.
You can reliably catch a colectivo from Santa Teresa to Cocalmayo at around 3pm, when vehicles head down to collect Inca Jungle Trail walkers arriving from Santa María. Otherwise, you may have to brave the unshaded, dusty walk or pay a taxi up to S10 each way.
Cola de Mono (79-2413, 984-70-9878; info@canopyperu.com; US$40) is Peru’s only zipline and South America’s highest; a must for thrill seekers. A total of 2500m of zipline in six separate sections whizzes you back and forth high above the Sacsara Valley – it’s more about flying through spectacular scenery than learning about the canopy, and all the better for it. Allow about 2½ hours.
To get there, it’s a pleasant half-hour stroll east – just follow the road out of town – or a S10 taxi ride.
The owners of Cola de Mono, river guides from way back, also run rafting on the spectacular, and so far little-exploited, Santa Teresa river (Click here for more information) and a three-day kayak school (US$150 including food and camping).
You can hike to the hydroelectric station via Llactapata, a five-hour walk up and over a hill on well-marked Inca trail, affording views of Machu Picchu and access to a half-cleared ruin. A taxi to drop you off at the start in Lucmabamba and pick you up at the hydroelectric station will set you back S35.
SLEEPING
You can camp at Hugo’s Lodge for free, at Baños Termales Cocalmayo for S5 per tent, or at Cola de Mono for S10 per person, including tent and mattress.
A handful of hospedajes in the center offer bare-bones accommodation for S10 per person. Hostal Yacumama (77-9980, 984-45-2404; s/d/tr/q S30/40/60/80), downhill from the bus terminal, is a big step-up in quality – still basic but spick-and-span with private bathrooms.
Albergue Municipal (79-2376; alberguemunicipal_st@hotmail.com; s/d/tr/dm S50/80/90/25), next to the football field, is the best option in town. It has a manicured lawn and cool, spacious rooms. The one dorm holds up to 11 people. Book ahead.
Hugo’s Lodge (77-9956; www.hugoslodge.com; r per person S20) is a bargain, and the Santa Teresa area’s finest. Airy bungalows and an expansive bar-restaurant overlook Cocalmayo, a 10-minute hike away. You can camp for free, or hire a fully equipped tent for S10.
EATING & DRINKING
The best food options are Crudo’s Club, which offers standard fast food and decent menús, and Mama Coca, which serves (at glacial speed) some yummy regional classics. To stock up on self-catering supplies and fresh tropical juice, head to the market above the bus terminal.
Crudo’s Club is Santa Teresa’s most happening nightspot, with a big bar and a small dance floor. Sentidos, behind the plaza, is the best choice for a quiet beer.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
To get to Santa Teresa from Cuzco, take a bus headed for Quillabamba from the Santiago terminal, get off in Santa María, and catch a local combi or colectivo (S8, one hour) to Santa Teresa.
To get to Machu Picchu, buy a train ticket to Aguas Calientes (S24) from the Peru Rail ticket office (6-8am & 10am-3pm daily, 6-8pm Wed & Sun) in the Santa Teresa bus terminal. Train tickets on this route are sold only at this ticket office, and only on the day of departure. The train leaves 4:30pm daily from the hydroelectric station, about 8km