Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [233]
You can also do this route as part of one of the guided multisport tours on offer (Click here).
Combis going directly to Quillabamba (S20, two hours) depart from Santa María’s Plaza de Armas daily at around 4am. There’s no need to travel at this unsavory hour, however – colectivos to Santa María leave often from the bus terminal. From Santa María you can connect to Quillabamba (S10, one hour) and Cuzco (S15, five to six hours).
Quillabamba
084 / pop 8800 / elev 1050m
Welcome to the jungle! Quillabamba’s tropical vibe is almost palpable, in the heat that becomes oppressive by 9am, the music that blares all night, and the ceiling-fanned, fly-spotted, land-that-time-forgot feel to most hotels and restaurants.
Quillabamba itself has few attractions and sees little tourism, but it can be used as a base for trips deeper into the jungle, and there are some outstanding, watery natural attractions nearby.
ORIENTATION
The streets north and south of the Mercado Central, rather than the eternally somnolent Plaza de Armas, are Quillabamba’s commercial center.
INFORMATION
BCP (Libertad 549) and Banco Continental on Bolognesi near the corner of Grau have ATMs and change US dollars. There’s arm-chewingly slow internet access at a few places around the Plaza de Armas. Limited tourist information is available on the 3rd floor of the Municipalidad.
SIGHTS AND ACTIVITIES
Locals are justifiably proud of Sanbaray (admission S0.50; 8am-late), a delightful complex of swimming pools, lawns, bars and a decent trout restaurant. It’s a 10-minute mototaxi ride (S3) from the center.
La Balsa, hidden far down a dire dirt track, is a bend in the Río Urubamba that’s perfect for swimming and river tubing. Enterprising locals sell beer and food here on weekends.
Mandor, Siete Tinajas and Pacchac are beautiful waterfalls where you can swim, climb and eat jungle fruit straight off the tree. Siete Tinajas and Pacchac are accessible via public transport for a few soles each to Charate; taxi transport to Mandor with waiting time will set you back S20.
TOURS & GUIDES
Roger Jara (984-71-2144; rogerjaraalmiron@hotmail.com) offers day trips to all of the attractions listed above, as well as remnant virgin jungle near Quillabamba. He can also guide you through the area’s big draws, Pongo de Mainique and Vilcabamba. He speaks some English.
Eco Trek Peru (in Cuzco 24-7286; www.ecotrekperu.com; Atocsaycuchi 599, Cuzco) are passionate specialists in multiday trips in this part of the world.
Bici Aventura (984-34-0201; Calle 2 de Mayo 423) provides information, bikes and guides for road and single-track missions.
SLEEPING
There are many cheap, cold-water hostels around the Plaza de Armas and the Mercado. Hostal Pineda (28-1447; Libertad 530; s/d/tr S15/30/55, s/d/tr without bathroom S12/24/36) is one, and is notable for the incredible feature of having only single beds.
Hostal Alto Urubamba (28-1131; altourubamba@gmail.com; 2 de Mayo 333; s/d/tr S40/60/80, s/d/tr without bathroom S19/26/36) Clean, comfortable-enough rooms with fans encircle a sunny courtyard in this dementedly noisy, long-established traveler favorite.
Hostal Quillabamba (28-1369; www.hostalquillabamba.com; Grau 590; s/d/tr/q S50/60/90/110; ) Hostal Quillabamba screams cheesy, quasi–Miami Vice glam – you wouldn’t be surprised to see Roger Moore chatting up a Bond Girl by the swimming pool. Rooms are shabby and dated, but not bad at the price.
EATING & DRINKING
Looking at the heladerías (ice-cream shops) on every corner, you could be forgiven for assuming that locals subsist on ice cream. Given the shortage of alternatives, you could be forgiven for doing the same.
Pizzería Alamos (Espinar s/n; mains from S8, pizzas from S11; 7am-11pm Mon-Sat, 3-11pm Sun) No other place in town is quite so kind to foreign