Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [238]
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ANDAHUAYLAS
083 / pop 6800 / elev 2980m
Andahuaylas, 135km west of Abancay on the way to Ayacucho, is the second-most important town in the department of Apurímac, and a convenient halfway stop on the rough but scenic route between Cuzco and Ayacucho.
Information
BCP (Ramón Castilla s/n) has an ATM and changes US dollars. There’s a Western Union office and several casas de cambio on Ramón Castilla. There are plenty of internet cafes, some fast – look for the Speedy sign. Clínica Señor de Huanca (42-1418; Andahuaylas 108) provides 24-hour emergency medical attention.
Sights & Activities
Andahuaylas’ main attraction, the beautiful Laguna de Pacucha, is 17km from town and accessible by bus or taxi. About 15km past the end of the lake is the imposing hilltop site of Sondor, built by the Chanka culture. The Chankas were traditional enemies of the Incas, but evidently shared their appreciation of a good view. You can easily access both the lake and the ruin by catching a combi from behind the market in Andahuaylas (to Pachuca S2.50, 40 minutes; to Sondor S3, one hour). Go in the morning –transport peters out by 4pm. A taxi will take you to both sites and back for around S40.
Both Andahuaylas and Pacucha have Sunday markets that are worth perusing.
Festivals & Events
The annual Fiesta de Yahuar (Blood Feast) is on July 28, when traditional dances and music are performed. In the village of Pacucha, the festival includes lashing a condor to the back of a bull and allowing the two to fight in a representation of the highland people’s struggle against the Spanish conquistadors.
Sleeping
You can’t expect a hot shower in an Andahuaylas hotel, but you can count on cable TV. Go figure.
Hostal Cruz del Sur (42-1571; Andahuaylas 117; s/d/tr without bathroom S10/25/30, d S30) This is the best cheap choice in Andahuaylas, with spacious rooms off outdoor balconies around a flowery patio. Showers S2.
El Edén de Adán y Eva (42-1746; Palma s/n; s/d/tr S25/45/60, s/d/tr without bathroom S20/30/50) This friendly, family-run hotel near the Plaza de Armas is good value, with dark but fairly spacious rooms.
Encanto de Apurímac Hotel (42-3527; hencantoapurimac@yahoo.com; Ramos 401; s without bathroom S25, s/d/tr & ste S35/55/70; ) Nothing fancy, but modern, spacious and bland. The matrimonial suite, with big pink bath, is a great deal. Rates include breakfast.
El Encanto de Oro Hotel (42-3066; www.hotel-andahuaylas.com; Av Casafranca 424; s without bathroom S35, s/d/tr S45/70/90) Friendly and caring, near the market and the Pachuco bus stop. Spotlessly clean rooms are of varying shapes and sizes, and all have frilly curtains and phones. Breakfast is included.
Palacio Real (20-5361; Andahuaylas 373; s S40, d S50-60; ) This shiny new wireless-enabled hostel offers good doubles and matrimoniales (rooms with one large bed). Single rooms are dark but still spacious. Bathrooms are big and blankets are fluffy – a good deal on the whole.
Imperio Chanka (42-3065; imperiochanka_hotel@hotmail.com; Vallejo 384; s/d with breakfast S45/70) Has a characterless exterior, but very good, clean rooms. It’s Andahuaylas’ swankiest hotel, for what that’s worth.
Eating, Drinking & Entertainment
El Capucchino (42-1790; Cáceres Tresierra 321; snacks from S2.50, crepes & salads from S7; 9am-11pm Mon-Sat; ) This cheery, breezy, French-run place is a haven of Western home comforts: yummy crepes, waffles and sandwiches, loads of vegetarian options, Andahuaylas’ best coffee, plus books, magazines and games. A deservedly popular hangout with both locals and travelers.
Chifa El Dragón (42-1749; cnr Ramos & Trelles; menú from S7; 7am-10pm)