Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [239]
For a night out, head to discoteca El Maxx Oh (Cáceres Tresierra s/n; Wed-Sun) to bust some moves, or to Chaska Karaoke (Constitución s/n; 8pm-late) to belt out a few numbers in Spanish or French.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Two regional airlines, LC Busre (42-1591; www.lcbusre.com.pe; Plaza de Armas s/n; 7:30am-7pm) and Cielos Andinos (42-2328; www.cielosandinos.com.pe; Plaza de Armas s/n; 8am-1pm & 2-7pm) fly between Andahuaylas, Lima and Ayacucho. LC Busre leaves daily at 10:10am (S119 to Lima), while Cielos Andinos flies on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday mornings (S134 to Lima). Cielos Andinos includes transport from the airline office to the regional airport, a half-hour drive away. A taxi to the airport will cost about S25. Travel agency Explora Apurímac (42-2877; Plaza de Armas s/n; 8am-1pm & 3-8pm) can book you on either airline.
BUS
Heading east, Celtur (42-2337; cnr Vallejo & Ugarte; ), Señor de Huanca (42-1218; Martinelli 170), Expreso los Chankas (42-2441; Malećon Grau s/n) and Molina Union (42-1248; Av los Sauces s/n) run daily to Cuzco (S25, nine hours) via Abancay (S10, five hours). Celtur buses depart at 6:45am and 7pm; Señor de Huanca at 6am, 10am, 1pm and 7pm; Expreso los Chankas at 9:30am, 6:30pm and 7:10pm; and Molina Union at 7pm.
Several companies run faster, more comfortable and expensive minibuses to Abancay (S20, 3½ hours).
Heading west, Celtur and Los Chankas have daily services to Ayacucho around 7am and 7pm (S35, 12 hours). Direct buses to Lima are run by Wari (42-1936; Malecón Grau s/n) at 6am, 11am, 2pm and 5pm, and Molina Union at 10am and 4pm. Getting to Lima takes 20 hours and costs S70.
Bus companies leave from the terminal terrestre but arrive to their offices, except Expreso Molino and Wari, which only use their own offices. Minibus companies all operate out of the terminal. Terminal departure tax is S1.
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Central Highlands
* * *
LIMA TO TARMA
SAN PEDRO DE CASTA & MARCAHUASI
LA OROYA
TARMA
ACOBAMBA
PALCAMAYO
SAN PEDRO DE CAJAS
SOUTHEAST OF TARMA
JAUJA
CONCEPCIÓN
HUANCAYO
RÍO MANTARO VALLEY
IZCUCHACA
HUANCAVELICA
AYACUCHO
WARI RUINS & QUINUA
VILCASHUAMÁN & VISCHONGO
NORTH OF TARMA
JUNÍN & AROUND
CERRO DE PASCO (CERRO)
SOUTHWEST OF CERRO DE PASCO
HUÁNUCO
LA UNIÓN
TANTAMAYO
TINGO MARÍA
* * *
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If it’s the breathtaking ruins of ancient civilizations or immersion in uninterrupted wilderness that you seek during your voyage in Peru, take stock for a moment. The rocky, remote central highlands can match the country’s better-known tourist destinations for these things and more with one important bonus: the almost total absence of other travelers.
This part of the Central Andes is Peru at its most Peruvian. Travel here is not for the faint-hearted: gone for the most part are the luxury buses, glam restaurants and paved roads. But adventure-spirited travelers will instead discover a better insight into local life than is possible elsewhere. Party at one of the region’s myriad fiestas, browse markets teaming with Peru’s best handicrafts, bond with the locals on bumpy bus journeys or hike into the high hills to little-known Inca palaces – whatever path you choose in the central highlands, you’ll be coming away with authentic experiences. This is the heartland of Andean Peru – its soul, one could say.
Life in this bare, starkly beautiful region is lived largely off the land: llamas and donkeys line the roads more than cars and bright indigenous dress predominates in communities where markets selling produce and handicrafts are the focal points. It often seems as if the rearing, lake-studded mountains here have managed to shield the central highlands from the 21st century. Here, life ticks by much as it has for eons; where festivals, celebrations, ceremonies and traditions thrive. Travelers here are always welcomed and often afforded hospitality beyond the means of the region’s modest-living inhabitants. If