Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [244]
The present sanctuary, inaugurated in 1972, is a modern building with an electronically controlled bell tower and is decorated with huge weavings from San Pedro de Cajas.
The feast of El Señor de Muruhuay, held throughout May, has been celebrated annually since 1835. There are religious services, processions, dances, fireworks, ample opportunities to sample local produce and even a few gringos. Stalls sell chicha (corn beer) and cuy, but be wary unless your stomach is travel-hardened. Visitors usually stay in nearby Tarma, although Acobamba has accommodation possibilities.
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PALCAMAYO
064
From this attractive village, tumbling down a valley-side 28km from Tarma and serviced by regular colectivo taxis, you can visit the Gruta de Huagapo, a huge limestone cave 4km further up in the hills off the San Pedro de Cajas road. The name means ‘cave that cries’ in Quechua – testimony to the Tarama people who supposedly hid from and were then massacred by invading Incas here. Various international expeditions have explored the cave, which is one of Peru’s largest and is officially protected as a National Speleological Area. Several lesser-known nearby caves like the Gruta de Rosario would also be of speleological interest.
A descent into the Gruta de Huagapo requires caving equipment and experience: tourist facilities consist only of a few frayed ropes. The cave contains waterfalls, squeezes and underwater sections (scuba equipment required). It is possible to enter the cave for a short distance but you soon need technical gear. In one of the two houses below the mouth of the cave is a collection of photographs and newspaper clippings describing the exploration of the cave. This is the home of former cave guide Señor Modesto Castro, who has explored the cave on numerous occasions. His son, Ramiro, can still be of assistance. Refreshments are also on offer at the cave.
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SAN PEDRO DE CAJAS
064
Forty kilometers up in the hills from Tarma, peaceful San Pedro is the production center for the country’s finest tapices (tapestries). Most of the village is involved in making these high-quality woven wall hangings, depicting moving scenes from rural Peruvian life. You can watch locals weaving in workshops round the Plaza de Armas: it’s one of Peru’s best opportunities for witnessing handicraft production – and purchasing the results.
The Casa del Artesano (Plaza de Armas; 9am-7pm) is one of the largest workshops. On the same street, down from the plaza, two basic hospedajes (family inns) offer rooms. Colectivo taxis from Tarma (S5, one hour) serve San Pedro regularly. Look out for superbly preserved Inca terraces on the way up.
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SOUTHEAST OF TARMA
This section of Peru’s central highlands is dominated by the Río Mantaro valley, running between the towns of Jauja and Huancayo and split by the Río Mantaro throughout its length. The valley is a wide, fertile agricultural plain and home to a number of villages renowned for their handicrafts.
Festivals are a way of life in the valley. Valley residents say that there is a festival occurring each day of the year and chancing upon some colorful celebrations is likely. Southwards from Huancayo the road leads through narrow valleys to Huancavelica and further south through a rough but scenic route to Ayacucho.
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JAUJA
064 / pop 25,000 / elev 3250m
Coming from Lima, the first place you pass along this route is Jauja, a small, bustling colonial town of narrow traffic-swamped streets about 60km southeast of Tarma and 40km north of Huancayo. It offers some decent accommodation options, which can be used as a base for sampling attractions including a lakeside resort and several interesting hikes to archaeological ruins.
Orientation & Information
Jauja is