Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [245]
You can change money at BCP (36-2011; Junín 785), which also sports an ATM. Internet cabinas dot most central blocks. For good general information, click to www.jauja.info (mostly Spanish; limited English).
Sights & Activities
Jauja was Francisco Pizarro’s first capital in Peru, though this honor was short-lived. Some finely carved wooden altars in the main church are all that remain of the early colonial days. Before the Incas, this area was the home of an important Huanca indigenous community, and Huanca ruins can be seen on a hill about 3km southeast of town. A brisk walk or mototaxi will get you there.
About 4km from Jauja is Laguna de Paca, a small lakeside resort offering restaurants, rowboats and fishing. A boat ride around the lake will cost about S3 per passenger (five-person minimum). There are ducks and gulls, and you can stop at Isla del Amor – a tiny artificial island. A mototaxi here costs S3.
A well-preserved Camino del Inca (Inca road) runs from Jauja to Tarma. The most spectacular section is from Tingo (30 minutes from Jauja by taxi) to Inkapatakuna (30 minutes from Tarma), a six- to eight-hour hike.
Straddling the border between the departments of Junín and Lima, half an hour north of Jauja, is Pachacayo, gateway to the remote Reserva Nor Yaujos, an iconic Andean smorgasbord of glimmering blue-green mountain lakes nestled within towering peaks and home to the Pariacaca Glacier. You’ll need a 4WD vehicle to get there; Tampu Tours (see below) arranges treks.
There is a colorful market in the town center every Wednesday morning.
Tours & Guides
For adventure hiking contact Tampu Tours (36-2314; www.tampu.info, in Spanish; Bolívar 1114), which runs challenging trekking tours in the area.
Sleeping
Many visitors stay in Huancayo and travel to Jauja by minibus or colectivo taxi.
Hostal Santa Rosa (36-2225; Ayacucho 792; s with/without bathroom S25/15, d S35/25) On the corner of the Plaza de Armas, this is the best of the budget bunch (despite its poky entrance). Ask to see several rooms: some are quite dingy. Hot water is provided.
Hostal Manco Cápac (36-1620; Manco Cápac 575; s/d without bathroom incl breakfast S40/70) By far the best choice in Jauja is this secure, peaceful house with huge rooms abutting two courtyard gardens. Bathrooms are clean and showers hot: each room is allotted its own exclusive bathroom. It’s three blocks north of the Plaza de Armas and rates include a continental breakfast with freshly brewed coffee. The owners are great sources of local information.
Hostal María Nieves (36-2543; Gálvez 491; s with/without bathroom S30/25, d S40/35) This place also comes recommended: the owner is friendly and the rooms have TVs. Rates include breakfast.
Eating
Out by Laguna de Paca, a string of lakeshore restaurants attempt to entice diners with shrill, piped Andean music. Music aside, the lakeside tables are pleasant enough to sit at. There is little to choose between the bunch, though Las Brisas near the beginning of the strip is considered one of the better ones and does offer a fairly solid plate of pachamanca (meat, potatoes and vegetables cooked in an earthen ‘oven’ of hot rocks). Another specialty here is clay-baked trucha (trout) seasoned with chilies, garlic and lemon, wrapped in banana leaves and baked in Laguna mud: delicious. Despite such culinary offerings, several travelers have reported upset stomachs after eating at Laguna de Paca restaurants. Jauja has several simple, central restaurants.
El Paraíso (36-1599; Ayacucho 917; mains S10-12; lunch & dinner) The best eatery in town is this vast plant-filled restaurant popular with locals who are attracted by bargain specialties such as trucha (from Laguna de Paca) or picante de cuy (roast guinea pig in a spicy sauce). It’s just south of the main plaza.
Getting There & Away
Jauja has the regional airport, with daily flights to/from Lima courtesy of LC Busre (www.lcbusre.com.pe). The airport is south of town on the Huancayo