Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [252]
Return to beginning of chapter
RÍO MANTARO VALLEY
Two main road systems link Huancayo with the villages of the Río Mantaro valley, and are known simply as the left and right of the river. Izquierda (left) is the east and derecha (right) is the west side of the river, as you head into Huancayo from the north. It is best to confine your sightseeing on any given day to one side or the other; few bridges link the two sides.
Perhaps the most interesting excursion on the east side is a visit to the twin villages of Cochas Grande and Cochas Chico, about 11km from Huancayo. These villages are the major production centers for the incised gourds that have made the district famous. Oddly enough, the gourds are grown mainly on the coast, in the Chiclayo and Ica areas. Once transported into the highlands, they are dried and scorched, then decorated using woodworking tools. The house of Señor Alejandro Cipriano (064-76-6486; mateburilado@hotmail.com; Huancayo 733, Cochas Grande) is recommended for seeing the finished products.
On the west side, the town of Chupaca has an interesting livestock market. Starting early, you can visit and continue by bus to Ahuac, then hike a further 1km up to Laguna Ñahuimpuquio, which offers restaurants, boat rides and a cave to explore. From the east shore a path climbs to a ridge for great valley views and the ruins of Arwaturo, constructed to maximize illumination by the sun’s rays.
Other villages known for their handicrafts include: San Agustín de Cajas, known for the manufacture of wicker furniture; Hualhuas, a manufacturing center for wool products, including ponchos and weavings; and San Jerónimo de Tunán, known for its filigree silverwork and also boasting a 17th-century church with fine wooden altars. While most trading is done in Huancayo, the villages are easily visited from the city. They have few facilities but there is no substitute for the experience of seeing the crafts in the villages themselves. The key is an ability to speak some Spanish and make friends with the locals.
Return to beginning of chapter
IZCUCHACA
067
The main village between Huancayo and Huancavelica, Izcuchaca has a pottery center, hot (well, distinctly lukewarm) springs and a historic bridge. This, legend has it, was built by the Incas and defended by Huascar against the advance of Atahualpa’s troops during the civil war that was raging in the Inca empire just before the Spaniards arrived. (To learn more on this period, Click here.)
The only reason to linger here is to make a connection for the Huancavelica train (when it’s running, Click here) if coming from Ayacucho. As bus arrival times and train departure times don’t match, this may require staying overnight; try blue-colored Hospedaje La Pequeñita (r without bathroom S10, d S25) near the train station. You might be lucky to find room in a Huancavelica-bound colectivo taxi, but a bus pickup is a more reliable option.
Return to beginning of chapter
HUANCAVELICA
067 / pop 41,350 / elev 3690m
It’s a mystery why more travelers don’t visit this pretty colonial city: it’s bursting with beautiful churches and charming plazas, boasts a museum and mineral springs and lies picturesquely nestled within craggy peaks. These days, it’s even easily accessible, with a good road connecting it to Huancayo 147km to the north. Still, few people make it here and therein lies another attraction: Huancavelica is a safe, serene spot to take a break from the Gringo Trail and soak up life as the locals live it. This entails partying at one of the frequent fiestas, browsing the markets or, for the most part, strolling the streets and sitting watching the colorful cross-section of society pass by.
This historic city was a strategic Inca center and shortly after the conquest