Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [253]
Information
More than a dozen central places provide internet access.
@Internet (Segura 166) On the Plaza de Armas.
BCP (45-2831; Toledo 384) Has a Visa ATM and changes money.
Dirección de Turismo (45-2938; dreceturhvc@yahoo.es; V Garma 444, 2nd fl; 8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) Provides good directions (in Spanish) for local hikes such as the 6km hike to the ghostly deserted mine of Santa Barbara.
Lavandería Sam (Toledo 346) A reasonably modern place to get your gear washed.
Main post office (Pasaje Ferrua 105) Near Iglesia de Santa Ana.
Multired (Muñoz) A stand-alone ATM next to the Municipalidad; doesn’t work with all cards.
Sights & Activities
INSTITUTO NACIONAL DE CULTURA
The INC (45-2544, 45-3420; Raimondi 205; admission free; 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun), in a colonial building on Plaza San Juan de Dios, has information and displays about the area; ask the helpful director if you have any questions. A small museum features Inca artifacts, fossils, displays of local costumes and paintings by Peruvian impressionist artists. You even have the option of taking a class in folklórico dancing.
CHURCHES
Huancavelica churches are noted for their silver-plated altars, unlike the altars in the rest of Peru’s colonial churches, which are usually gold-plated. There are several churches of note here, although they are generally closed to tourism. However, you can go as a member of the congregation when they are open for services, usually early in the morning on weekdays, with longer morning hours on Sunday.
The oldest church in Huancavelica is Santa Ana, founded in the 16th century. The cathedral, built in 1673, has been restored and contains what some say is the best colonial altar in Peru, including escuela cuzqueña paintings.
Other 17th-century churches include San Francisco, renowned for its 11 intricately worked altars; Santo Domingo, with famous statues of Santo Domingo and La Virgen del Rosario, which were made in Italy; San Sebastián, which has been well restored; San Cristóbal; and La Ascensión.
SAN CRISTÓBAL MINERAL SPRINGS
These mineral springs (pool/private shower S1.50/3; 6am-3pm) are fed into two large, slightly murky swimming pools. The lukewarm water supposedly has curative properties. You can rent a towel, soap and a bathing suit if you’ve forgotten yours (though the selection is limited and unlovely). You can reach the springs via a steep flight of stairs – enjoy the view of the city as you climb.
MARKETS
Market day in Huancavelica is Sunday and, although there are smaller daily markets, Sunday is the best day to see locals in traditional dress. The main Sunday market area snakes up Barranca then continues along Torre Tagle behind the cathedral.
LAGUNA DE CHOCLOCOCHA
One of many lakes adorning the Rumichaca road, this body of water, 70km south of Huancavelica, can be visited by taking the Rumichaca-bound bus at 4:30am. It’s about two hours to Choclococha ‘town’ (then a 10-minute walk); the same bus can pick you up again on its return to Huancavelica at 2pm (check with the driver). This lake at 4700m is dazzling on a sunny day when the surrounding mountains are mirrored in its waters. Birdlife at the lake includes condors. There is good hiking and fishing, and lakeside restaurants.
Festivals & Events
Huancavelica’s vibrant fiestas are renowned and, due to the mostly indigenous population, feel particularly authentic. Colorful traditional festivities occur on major Peruvian holidays, such as Carnaval, Semana Santa, Todos Santos and Christmas. Among the best is the Fiesta de las Cruces (Festival of the Crosses) held for six days during May: revelers bear crosses, local bands