Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [254]
Huancavelica’s Semana Turística (Tourism Week) is held in late September and early October.
Sleeping
Huancavelica does in fact boast more than a dozen places to stay, though most of them are budget to superbudget options that don’t offer hot water. There’s always the town’s natural mineral baths to soak away the aches and pains. The better places to stay follow.
Hostal Señor de Oropesa (Huancayo s/n; s/d without bathroom S12/20) Conveniently located for train-travelers (it’s opposite the station), this turquoise-walled place has clean, adequate rooms, cold water and piles of blankets to keep out the Andean chill.
Hospedaje San José (45-1014; Huancayo s/n; s/d with S35/45, s/d without bathroom S12/20) Towering above the south (top) end of Calle Baranca by the market, the San José has a cluttered entrance leading up to surprisingly large rooms with comfortable beds and hot water. Many get good views over town.
Hotel Ascensión (45-3103; Manco Cápac 481; s/d S35/45, s/d without bathroom S15/25) On the Plaza de Armas, this hotel has larger, but considerably darker and mustier rooms than its posher neighbor the Presidente. It claims 24-hour hot water: the last two words of this claim are true, sometimes.
Gran Hostal La Portada (45-1050; h_laportada_hvca@hotmail.com; Toledo 252; s/d S45/65, s/d without bathroom S12/18) This bright new offering has filled the long-standing gap between the budget places and the Presidente in the local accommodation scene. It’s very traveler-friendly: cozy rooms are done up in welcoming orange, have cable TV and hot water and center on a quiet courtyard.
Hotel Presidente Huancavelica (/fax 45-2760; Plaza de Armas; s/d S100/145) The presentable old Hotel Presidente Huancavelica is, truth be told, a bit pricey for what you actually get. Rooms are plain but do benefit from guaranteed hot showers, telephone, cable TV and a laundry service – not to forget a handy restaurant.
Eating
There are no standout restaurants but plenty of chicken places and chifas (Chinese restaurants).
Restaurant Joy (45-2860; Toledo 230; mains S7-15; 9am-2pm & 5-10pm) For excellent grilled trout cast a line here. There’s not a lot of room but it pulls in the local diners for a limited but honest selection of Peruvian dishes. The owner must like the Beatles – there’s a signed poster of the Fab Four on the wall.
Chinita Huanca (Gamarra 305; mains S4-8; breakfast & lunch) This very spacious restaurant is more ambient than most, decorated with everything from local butterflies to artistic impressions of Huancavelica. The menu is less surprising, but does ample breakfasts, tasty chicharrones and, again, very good trout.
Entertainment
Peña Turística (45-3623; Toledo 319; 6pm- midnight Thu, Fri, Sat) The place to head for local folklórica groups such as Rammi, Llantuy and Taipuy.
Shopping
There are small daily markets, but Sunday is market day.
Handicrafts are sold almost every day on the north side of the Plaza de Armas and also by the Municipalidad. Colorful wool leggings are especially popular.
Getting There & Away
Huancavelica now sports a paved road connecting it to Huancayo (the easiest means of approach). This is a beautiful route that ascends on mountain contours then loops down to a narrow river valley and Izcuchaca before opening out again into lush alpine meadowland with thatched-roof settlements (some prettily painted) and wandering herds of llamas. It then spirals downwards into the valley where Huancavelica lies. You can also reach Huancavelica directly from Pisco via a 4850m pass and indirectly from Ayacucho.
The most interesting way to Huancavelica always used to be by train from Huancayo (marginally faster than the buses and taking the circuitous route mostly along the river valley). However, at the time of writing, the line was closed (for more information, Click here). Buses are of the ponderous local variety – filled with locals and their goods and produce. Most but not all take the scenic