Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [258]
The Museo Andrés Avelino Cáceres (Jirón 28 de Julio 508-512; admission S4; 8am-12pm/9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat) is housed in the Casona Vivanco, a gorgeous 16th-century mansion. Cáceres was a local man who commanded Peruvian troops during the War of the Pacific (1879–83) against Chile. Accordingly, the museum houses maps and military paraphernalia from that period, as well as colonial art: check the painting of the Last Supper – with cuy!
The Museo Arqueológico Hipólito Unanue (Museo INC; 31-2056; admission S4; 9am-1pm & 3-5pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) is in the Centro Cultural Simón Bolívar at the university, located more than 1km from the town center along Independencia – you can’t miss it. Wari ceramics make up most of the small exhibition, along with relics from the region’s other various civilizations. While there, check out the university library for a free exhibition of mummies, skulls and other niceties. The buildings are set in a botanical garden. The best time to visit the museum is in the morning: afternoon hours sometimes aren’t adhered to.
Centro Turístico Cultural San Cristóbal (Jirón 28 de Julio 178) is a remodeled colonial building transformed into a hip little mall. Here you’ll find bars, restaurants and coffee shops, along with art galleries, craft stores and flower stands. A nice place to hang during the day.
The mirador in the Carmen Alto district, one of the city’s most traditional areas, offers fabulous views of Ayacucho, as well as decent restaurants: taxis here charge S5, otherwise catch a bus from the Mercado Central or walk (one hour).
Tours & Guides
Several agencies arrange local tours; most cater to Peruvian tourists and guides mainly speak Spanish. Ask about tours in other languages.
Wari Tours (31-3115; Lima 148)
Warpa Picchu Eco-Aventura (31-9483, 966-90-1941; pverbistperu@gmail.com; Carretera Cuzco Km 5) Experienced, multilingual guide Pierre Verbist offers adventure tours in the area, including by 4WD. Contact Pierre in advance to arrange tours; his central office is at San Martín 425.
Courses
Via Via (31-2834; ayacucho.peru@viaviacafe.com; Portal Constitucion 4) runs Quechua courses. Fees are S30 per lesson for private tuition and significantly less for groups.
Festivals & Events
Ayacucho’s Semana Santa celebration, held the week before Easter, is Peru’s finest religious festival and attracts visitors from all over the country. Rooms in most hotels fill well in advance. The tourist office has lists of local families who provide accommodations for the overflow.
Each year, iPerú prints a free brochure describing the Semana Santa events with street maps showing the main processions. Visitors are advised to use this detailed information. The celebrations begin on the Friday before Palm Sunday and continue for 10 days until Easter Sunday. The Friday before Palm Sunday is marked by a procession in honor of La Virgen de los Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows), during which it is customary to inflict ‘sorrows’ on bystanders by firing pebbles out of slingshots. Gringos have been recent targets, so be warned.
Each succeeding day sees solemn yet colorful processions and religious rites, which reach a fever pitch of Catholic tradition. They culminate on the Saturday before Easter Sunday with a huge all-night party including dawn fireworks to celebrate the resurrection of Christ. If you want to party too, stay on your guard, as proceedings are notoriously wild. Crime in the city escalates dramatically during festivities: robbery and rape are not unheard of.
In addition to the religious services, Ayacucho’s Semana Santa celebrations include art shows, folk-dancing competitions, local music concerts, street events, sporting events (especially equestrian ones), agricultural fairs and the preparation of traditional meals.
The tourist office here is a good source of information about the large number of minor fiestas held throughout the department.
Sleeping
The revival of tourism in the late 1990s has resulted in a boom of