Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [259]
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A NOT-SO-SHINING PATH
The Sendero Luminoso’s (Shining Path) activities in the 1980s focused on deadly political, economic and social upheaval. In remote towns and villages, mayors were murdered, uncooperative villagers massacred, police stations and power plants bombed and government and church-sponsored aid projects destroyed. The government responded by sending in armed forces, who were often equally brutal, and in the ensuing civil war almost 70,000 people died or disappeared, most of them in the central Andes. Ayacucho was almost completely off-limits to travelers during the 1980s. Things finally changed when the Sendero Luminoso’s founder, Guzmán, was captured and imprisoned for life in 1992, followed quickly by his top lieutenants, leading to an eventual halt in activities that has lasted for some 12 years. In recent years the fragmented group has been only sporadically active, with its political idealism giving way to pragmatism – drug trafficking has been its most notable activity in recent times. A major exception to this was in April 2009, when Shining Path rebels killed 13 army officers in the Ayacucho region. That said, the threat to tourists is still minor and all of the listings in this chapter can be visited as safely as anywhere else in Peru.
For more on Peru’s Internal Conflict, Click here.
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BUDGET
Hotel La Crillonesa (31-2350; Nazareno 165; s/d S30/45, s/d without bathroom S15/25) A popular and helpful hotel, it offers a rooftop terrace with photogenic views, a cafe, TV room, tour information and 24-hour hot water. Its rather small, clean rooms have comfy beds; those with shower may have cable TV. The best rooms are right at the top.
La Colmena Hotel (31-1318; Cuzco 140; s/d S35/50, s without bathroom S15) This popular hotel is often full by early afternoon, partly because it’s one of the longest-standing places in town and partly because it’s only steps from the plaza. It’s a great building that has rather been resting on its laurels – many bathrooms are run-down. The drop in rates now makes this a good budget option. It also has a locally popular restaurant and a courtyard with balconies.
Hostal Tres Máscaras (31-2921, 31-4107; Tres Máscaras 194; s/d with S30/45, s/d without bathroom S18/30) The pleasing walled garden and friendly staff make this an enjoyable place to stay. Hot water is on in the morning and later on request. A room with TV is S5 extra. Continental/American breakfast is available for S6/7.
Hostal Ayacuchano (31-9891; Tres Máscaras 588; s/d S20/35) Amply sized, inoffensively decorated well-furnished rooms get cable TV and, in some cases, even balconies. Not all singles have private bathrooms, but the bathrooms in some of the doubles are the sanitary surprises of Ayacucho: spacious, with actual baths and hot water to boot.
Hotel D’Las Américas (31-3903; Asamblea 258; s/d S30/45) The rooms here are not quite as impressive as the bright, spacious, plant-filled entrance and the surprisingly pleasant communal areas but for the price you can’t complain: they’re clean, with hot water and cable TV. Street-facing rooms are noisy, although overlooking the bustling thoroughfare outside is visually agreeable.
Hostal Florida (31-2565; fax 31-6029; Cuzco 310; s/d S35/50) This traveler-friendly hostal (guest house) has a relaxing courtyard garden and clean rooms (those on the upper level are better) with bathrooms and TV, hot water in the morning and later on request. There is a basic cafeteria too.
Via Via (31-2834; ayacucho.peru@viaviacafe.com; Portal Constitucion 4; dm S35, s/d/ste S60/95/145) The most imaginative sleeping option is brand-new Via Via, with an enviable plaza location and cool, vibrantly decorated rooms themed around different