Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [260]
Hostal El Marqués de Valdelirios (31-8944; fax 31-7040; Bolognesi 720; s/d S40/60) This lovely, unsignposted colonial building is about 700m from the center. While it is in a quiet location, the walk back at night involves passing through some dark neighborhoods. There is a restaurant, bar and a grassy garden where food can be served. Rooms vary in size and in amenities (views, balconies, telephone) but all have beautiful furniture, cable TV and hot showers.
Hostal Marcos (31-6867; Jirón 9 de Diciembre 143; s/d incl breakfast S45/70) Twelve spotless rooms in a little place somewhat sequestered away at the end of an alley, which is clearly signposted off Jirón 9 de Diciembre. This place is often full, so call ahead if you can. Rooms offer 24-hour hot water and cable TV; a light breakfast is included.
MIDRANGE
Hotel San Francisco de Paula (31-2353; www.hotelsanfranciscodepaula.com; Callao 290; s/d incl breakfast S70/90) This rather rambling, oldish hotel isn’t flash, but it is presentable. It has a restaurant and bar and decent-sized, tiled rooms get the usual midrange facilities. Outside doubles are better as the inside singles can be very poky. There is also laundry and internet.
Hotel Santa María (/fax 31-4988; Arequipa 320; s/d S95/125) Of the places opened during the hotel rush of the late ’90s, this one seems to have got it right. It looks impressive from the outside and despite a slightly sterile interior, the rooms are very comfortable, quite spacious and tastefully decorated. There’s a bar and cafe-restaurant, too.
Hotel Santa Rosa (31-4614; Lima 166; www.hotel-santarosa.com; s/d incl breakfast S75/130) Less than a block from the Plaza de Armas, this capacious hotel with its twin courtyards has spacious, airy and cosily furnished rooms. Some come with a fridge (a luxury in the Central Andes) and all have TV, DVD player and phone. The bathrooms are large and the showers have oodles of hot water. There’s also a decent and well-priced on-site restaurant for meals.
Ayacucho Hotel Plaza (31-2202; fax 31-2314; Jirón 9 de Diciembre 184; s/d S200/240; ) Once considered the best in town, it’s an impressive-looking colonial building and the interior does admittedly exude a certain kind of colonial charm. However, for what you pay, the rooms are oh-so-plain and in reality no more than adequate. The better rooms have balconies (request one) and some have plaza views.
Eating
Restaurants within two blocks of the Plaza de Armas may be more expensive than places further out but it’s a fair trade-off for the added ambience and convenience. Regional specialties include puca picante, a potato and beef stew in a spicy red peanut and pepper sauce, served over rice; patachi, a wheat soup with various beans, dried potatoes and lamb or beef; and mondongo, a corn soup cooked with pork or beef, red peppers and fresh mint. Chicharrones and cuy are also popular. Vegetarians may accordingly be challenged to find meatless fare: chifas (Chinese restaurants) are often the best bet. For cheap eats try cuadra 4 of San Martín. Within the Centro Turístico San Cristóbal, some upbeat eats provide quality food and atmospheric, if slightly touristy, dining.
Café Miel (31-7183; Portal Constitución 4; snacks from S2; 10am-10pm) Breakfast is the best time to visit this reader-recommended place with its chirpy atmosphere and checkered tablecloths – we’re talking great fruit salads and Ayacucho’s best (freshly brewed) coffee. It serves hearty lunches and great chocolate cake too.
Wallpa Sua (31-2006; Calle de la Vega 240; mains S6-20; 6-11pm Mon-Sat) This is an upscale, locally popular and ever-busy chicken restaurant, with a quarter-chicken and fries starting at S6 and various other meat plates (like beef-heart brochettes) available. Wallpa sua is Quechua for ‘chicken thief’ – makes you wonder where it gets