Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [261]
La Casona (31-2733; Bellido 463; mains S5-20; 7am-10:30pm) This popular, ambient restaurant has been recommended by several travelers for its big portions. It focuses on Peruvian food like the excellent lomo saltado and often has regional specialties but seems to have difficulty serving even slightly chilled beer.
Restaurant Los Alamos (31-2782; Cuzco 215; mains average S10; 7am-10pm) In an attractive patio within the hotel of the same name, this restaurant has good service and a long menu of Peruvian selections and a few vegetarian plates; it may have musicians in the evening.
El Niño (31-4537, 31-9030; Jirón 9 de Diciembre 205; mains S10-18; 11am-2pm & 5-11pm) In a colonial mansion with a sheltered patio containing tables overlooking a garden, El Niño specializes in grills yet dishes up a variety of Peruvian food. The individual parrillada is good, although in practice sufficient for two modest eaters. This is one of the city’s best restaurants.
Via Via (31-2834; Portal Constitucion 4; mains S15-30; 10am-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri/Sat, to 3pm Sun) With its upstairs plaza-facing balcony, Via Via has the best views (and steepest prices) with which to accompany your meal in Ayacucho. It’s ethically sourced, organic food – the spicy albondigas (meatballs) are tempting – but this is Peruvian-European fusion cuisine, so you’ll find something to sate you and some crisp South American wine (from S30) to wash it down.
Urpicha (31-3905; Londres 272; mains S10-25; 11am-8pm) This is a homey place, with tables in a flower-filled patio and an authentic menu including the dishes listed in the Eating introduction. Order the house special: the chef’s mix of the top dishes of the day. It has a bit of a local cult following and few outsiders make it down here. However, the neighborhood isn’t great, so take a taxi after dark.
Pizzería Italiana (31-7574; Bellido 490; pizzas S12-25; 4:30-11:30pm) The wood-burning oven makes this a very cozy place on cold nights; musicians may wander in and the pizza is excellent.
Drinking & Entertainment
Outside of Semana Santa this is a quiet town, but there is a university so you’ll find a few bar-clubs to dance or hang out in, mostly favored by students. Ask at the tourist office about the latest peña (bar or club featuring live folkloric music) scene: at last report there were no stand-out choices.
Taberna Magía Negra (Jirón 9 de Diciembre 293; 4pm-midnight Mon-Sat) A bar-gallery with good local art, beer and pizza – plus great music.
The Rock (Cáceres 1035; to 2am Wed-Sat) is the liveliest local disco, known locally as Maxxo, where gringos, as well as locals, go to strut their stuff. There is another disco on the same block playing mostly salsa.
Shopping
Ayacucho is a renowned handicraft center: a visit to the Museo de Arte Popular will give you an idea of local products. The tourist office can recommend local artisans who will welcome you to their workshops. The Santa Ana barrio (neighborhood) is particularly well known for its crafts: there are various workshops around Plazuela Santa Ana. Such work costs considerably less when bought directly from the artist rather than from shops in Lima.
A craft market (Independencia & Quinua) is open during the day.
Getting There & Around
AIR
The airport is 4km from the town center. Taxis charge S7. Flight times and airlines can change without warning, so check airline websites for the latest schedules.
Cielos Andinos (31-3060; Jirón 9 de Diciembre 123) has flights from Lima at 7am on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays, with the Tuesday flight continuing to Andahuaylas. Flights to Lima are on the same days, departing Ayacucho at 8.30am. The Andahuaylas leg may be cancelled if there are not enough passengers.
LC Busre (31-6012; Jirón 9 de Diciembre 160) has three daily flights to Lima: two morning departures and one afternoon departure.
Departure tax for domestic flights is S12.
BUS
Buses arrive at and depart from a bewildering array of individual company terminals scattered throughout town, but all are relatively near one another.