Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [290]
The Chimú were conquered by the Incas in 1471 and heavy rainfall has severely damaged the adobe moldings of this once vast metropolis.
* * *
MIDRANGE
All these hotels have hot showers and TVs. You can get discounts of up to 50% outside festival and holiday times, so don’t be shy about asking for it.
Hostal Caballito de Totora (46-1154; caballitodetotora.tripod.com; La Rivera 219; s/d S54/81, d/tr with ocean view S108/135; ) Although there are lots of different rooms at Caballito de Tortora, it’s the suites that take the cake, each with perfect sea views and private patios. There’s also lots of greenery and the white walls with blue flourishes give it a truly Mediterranean feel. The regular rooms can be a little stuffy.
Las Brisas Hostal (46-1186; www.lasbrisasperu.com; Raimondi 146; s/d S60/85) This recently renovated white multistory monolith seems to have gotten lost on its way to the Greek Islands. It has decent rooms, many with views of the sea and a pleasant patio area. If you want to burn some calories, it’s one of the few hotels in town with a gym.
Las Palmeras (46-1199; www.laspalmerasdehuanchaco.com; Larco 1150; s S100, d S130-170; ) Probably the nicest place to stay in town, this well-trimmed, mellow-yellow resort hotel has spotless rooms (some with sea views), a secluded green lawn, a lovely pool, spots of shade and a restaurant to boot. It’s in an enclosed compound right near the beach and is a great place for travelers with kiddies.
Hostal el Malecón (46-1275; www.hostalelmalecon.com; La Rivera 212/233; s/d S105/150) This ‘highly qualified lodging company’ features a cafe, a terrace with views of surfers and a pub that plays videos on demand. English and German are spoken.
Hostal Bracamonte (46-1162; www.hostalbracamonte.com; Los Olivos 503; s/d S110/132, bungalows per person from S40; ) Popular, friendly, welcoming and secure behind high walls and a locked gate, the Bracamonte has nice gardens, a games room, video room, barbecue, restaurant, bar, and toddlers’ playground. The rooms include cable TVs, fans and phone. This is the oldest of Huanchaco’s good hotels and it remains among the best choices.
Huankarute Restaurant & Hospedaje (46-1705; www.hostalhuankarute.com; La Rivera 233; s/d S120/140; ) A small place with bright rooms that have fan and cable TV. The top-floor doubles afford great vistas as well as a real treat – bathtubs!
Eating
Not surprisingly, Huanchaco has oodles of seafood restaurants, especially near the caballitos de tortora stacked at the north end of the beach.
Otra Cosa (46-1346; www.otracosa.info; Larco 921; dishes S3-9; 9am-8pm Wed-Sun) Decorated with Middle Eastern flair, this cozy, hammock-filled beachside pad serves up yummy vegetarian victuals like falafel and hummus.
Grill A Bordo (937-4026; Los Pinos 491; dishes S3-18; 6-11pm Mon-Sat, 11am-11pm Sun) The ships-ahoy theme, complete with waiters dressed as sailors, may be unnecessary as this parrillada (grill house) serves only one fish dish – but there are plenty of scrumptiously grilled meats on offer. Located a few blocks back from the beach, it’s a cozy little place that also houses a small ceramics gallery.
El Caribe (Larco at Atahualpa; dishes S9-14; 10am-7pm) Recommended for its seafood, particularly the reasonably priced ceviche.
Mamma Mía (997-3635; Larco at Independencia; pasta S15, pizza S25; 6-11pm) Come here for delicious concoct-your-own pizzas prepared with the freshest ingredients. The pastas are also great, but for a real treat you should check to see if the Peruvian owner, Fernando, is making any of his famous secret-recipe crab lasagna. Yum.
Club Colonial (461-015; Grau 142; meals S15-28; noon-11pm) On the plaza, this Belgian-run place is in a striking, candle-lit colonial mansion and serves up finely prepared Peruvian and French dishes. It also doubles as a gallery for quality local artists and is the best place in town for a romantic rendezvous. Hours can be erratic.
Restaurant Big Ben (46-1378; Larco 836; mains S18-25; 11am-11pm) At the far north