Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [291]
Restaurante Mococho (46-1350; Bolognesi 535; 3-course meals about S45; 1-3pm) This tiny place sits secluded in a walled garden where patrons wait to see what amazing seafood concoctions the skilled don Victor will serve up that day. It’s not cheap, but ceviche and seafood does not get any better than this.
Getting There & Away
Combis to Huanchaco frequently leave from Trujillo (S2). To return, just wait on the beachfront road for the bus as it returns from the north end. A taxi from Trujillo is S9 to S14.
OTUZCO
044 / pop 11,400 / elev 2627m
The small town of Otuzco is only two hours away from Trujillo, making it the only place in Peru where you can go coast-to-Andean peaks in such a short amount of time. The cobblestone streets, cool weather and relaxed pace of life make this a great day trip or stopover on the mountain route to Cajamarca. The modern church here houses the Virgen de la Puerta (Virgin of the Door), the object of a popular Peruvian pilgrimage on December 15.
The trip itself is worthwhile, as you’ll be greeted by excellent scenery while your fillings jitter on the rough journey through coastal subtropical crops and into the highland agricultural regions.
There are some modest places to stay, the best being the cheap Hostal Los Portales (Santa Rosa 680; s/d S12/20). A few inexpensive restaurants serve Peruvian food, but none are outstanding.
Línea has buses from Otuzco and Trujillo (S5, two hours). Colectivos to Huamachuco leave regularly from the southern part of town (S6.50, four hours).
PUERTO CHICAMA
044
The small fishing outpost of Puerto Chicama might not look like much, but it’s the offshore action that draws a dedicated following. Puerto Chicama, also called Malabrigo, lays claim to one of the longest left-hand point breaks in the world. Originally a busy port for the sugar and cotton grown on nearby haciendas, Puerto Chicama now draws adrenaline-seeking surfers who try their luck catching that rare, long ride. Peru’s National Surfing Championship is usually held here in March.
The lengthy break is caused by a shallow, flat beach and on a good day waves can reach up to 2m and travel for an incredible 2km. Good waves can be found year-round, but the marathon breaks only come about when the conditions are just so, usually between March and June. There is some gear available for hire at El Hombre, though it’s best to bring your own. The water is very cold for much of the year, except for December through March.
The aid organization Bruce Peru (in Trujillo 94-992-4445; www.bruceperu.com/malabrigo; San Martín 444, Trujillo) helps kids who are unable to attend school. Volunteer opportunities are best arranged beforehand – contact the Trujillo office – although short-term, walk-in volunteers are sometimes needed.
El Hombre (57-6077; s/d from S15/25) is the original surfers’ hostel and is run by local legend ‘El Hombre,’ a surfer guru who’s been at it for more than 40 years. Facing the ocean, the hostel has comfy beds, good simple meals, kitchen privileges and a communal TV often seen flickering with surf videos. Next door, the French-owned El Inti (57-6138; s/d S30/45) has a sea-view restaurant where Peru doffs its hat to French influences. There are a few garden bungalows here, a barbecue and a pool table. A few doors down, Hostal los Delfines (57-6103; losdelfineschicama@hotmail.com; s/d/ste S60/80/120; ) is the midrange choice, with more ocean views, a heart-shaped pool and Jacuzzis in the suites.
Some surf shops in Huanchaco, including Un Lugar (Click here), arrange surfing safaris to Puerto Chicama. Buses leave frequently from Trujillo’s Provincial Bus Terminal Interurbano to the town of Paiján, 40km further north on the Panamericana (S5, 1½ hours). From here you can catch colectivos for the 16km to Puerto Chicama (S1, 20 minutes).
PACASMAYO
044 / pop 25,700
This lively, mostly forgotten beach town is crammed with colonial buildings in various states of disrepair and blessed with