Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [292]
The Balin Surf Shop (Junín 84) rents boards and does repairs. There’s a BCP (Ayacucho 20) bank on the small plaza near the beach with a Visa ATM. Internet access is available all over town.
A few kilometers north, just before the village of Guadalupe, a track leads toward the ocean and the little-visited ruins of Pacatnamú, a large site that was inhabited by the Gallinazo, Moche and Chimú cultures.
There are several cheap, basic-but-clean hotels in town and some swisher converted colonial mansions and new constructions along the beach. Hotel San Francisco (52-2021; Prado 21; s/d S20/30, s/d without bathroom S15/20) is on the main commercial strip and has clean, bare-bones rooms. The good-value Hospedaje El Mirador (52-1883; www.pacasmayoperu.com; Aurelio Herrera 10; d S30-60, tr S40-75) is all brick and tile, but the rooms, varying from económico (basic) to de lujo (luxury) all have cable TV, hot water and balconies; the nicest rooms have kitchens and DVD players. Hotel Pakatnamú (52-3255; www.actiweb.es/hotelpakatnamu; Malecón Grau 103; s/d/ste S75/105/125; ) is in a freshly painted colonial building along the waterfront. The plush rooms here come with TV, fridge and even a mounted car stereo with ‘surround sound.’ A few doors down, La Estación Pacasmayo Hotel (52-1515; www.hotellaestacion.com.pe; Malecón Grau 69; s/d S80/120; ) is a similarly majestic, restored Republican-era building with a lovely terrace restaurant; all the rooms have balconies. The best place in town to eat is the seafood-centric restaurant at Hospedaje El Mirador (mains & breakfasts S4.50-18; 7am-11pm).
In Guadalupe village, try Hotel el Bosque (56-6490; s/d S50/75).
Frequent buses to and from Trujillo (two hours), Chiclayo (two hours) and Cajamarca (four hours) pass through the northern end of town.
CHICLAYO
074 / pop 256,900
Spanish missionaries founded a small rural community on this site in the 16th century. Either by chance, or through help from above, Chiclayo has prospered ever since. In one of the first sharp moves in Peruvian real estate, the missionaries chose a spot that sits at the hub of vital trade routes connecting the coast, the highlands and the deep jungle. Chiclayo’s role as the commercial heart of the district has allowed it to overtake other once-vital organs of the region, such as the nearby city of Lambayeque, and this bustling metropolis shows few signs of slowing down.
La Ciudad de la Amistad (the City of Friendship) holds a friendly, outstretched hand to the wayward venturer. While it’s shaking hands hello, it will probably slip in a bold mix of unique regional dishes to tickle your taste buds. Known for its brujos (witch doctors), the fascinating market here is a Wal-Mart of shamanistic herbs, elixirs and other sagely curiosities. While the town itself is pretty light on tourist attractions, the dozens of tombs with Moche and Chimú archaeological booty surrounding the area should not be missed.
Information
EMERGENCY
Policía de Turismo (23-6700; Saenz Peña 830) Useful for reporting problems.
IMMIGRATION
Oficina de Migraciónes (20 -6838; La Plata 70) Near Paseo de Las Museos; does visa extensions.
INTERNET ACCESS
Internet abounds.
Ciber C@fe (Izaga 716; per hr S2; 8am-11pm) Has a cozier feeling than most.
LAUNDRY
Biolav (23-3159; Saenz Peña btwn Izaga & Cabrera; per kg S5; 8am-9pm)
MEDICAL SERVICES
Clínica del Pacífico (23-6378; Ortiz 420) The best medical assistance in town.
MONEY
There are several banks on cuadra (block) 6 of Balta. Money changers outside the banks change cash quickly at good rates.
Banco Continental (23-9110; Balta 643)
BCP (23-7291; Balta 630) Has a 24-hour Visa and MasterCard ATM.
Interbank (23-8361; cnr Colón & Aguirre)
Scotiabank (22-4724; Balta