Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [293]
POST
Post office (Aguirre 140; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) West of Plaza Aguirre.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Centro de Informacíon Turístico (23-3132; Sáenz Peña 838) Has lots of information.
Information booth (Plaza de Armas) Hours are irregular.
Sights & Activities
In 1987 a royal Moche tomb at Sipán, 30km southeast of Chiclayo, was located by researchers. This find proved to be extraordinary, as archaeologists recovered hundreds of dazzling and priceless artifacts from the site. Excavation continues. Partly because of these rare treasures, the Chiclayo area has single-handedly cornered the Peruvian market for exceptionally well-designed museums; a case in point is the excellent museum in Lambayeque, 11km north of Chiclayo. Other sites worth visiting are the ruins at Túcume, another great museum in Ferreñafe, as well as a number of coastal villages.
Make sure not to miss a visit to Mercado Modelo (9am-5pm), one of Peru’s most interesting markets. This place sprawls for several blocks and is a thick maze of fresh fruits and vegetables, woven goods, handicrafts, live animals, fish, meats and, most interestingly, the mercado de brujos (witch doctors’ market) in the southwest corner. This area is a one-stop shop for medicine men and has everything you might need for a potent brew: whale bones, amulets, snake skins, vials of indeterminate tonics, hallucinogenic cacti and piles of aromatic herbs. If you’d like to make contact with a brujo for a healing session, this is a good place to start, but be wary of sham shamans. It’s best to go with a recommendation (Click here).
Chiclayo’s cathedral was built in the late 19th century, and the Plaza de Armas (Parque Principal) wasn’t inaugurated until 1916, which gives an idea of how new the city is by Peruvian standards. The Paseo de las Musas showcases classical-style statues of mythological figures. The Plaza de Armas is a great place to amble as it fills nightly with sauntering couples, evangelical preachers and an army of underemployed shoe shiners.
Travelers with kids might want to check out the children’s playground at the west end of Aguirre.
Tours & Guides
Agencies offer frequent inexpensive tours of Sipán, Túcume, Ferreñafe, Batán Grande and the museums in Lambayeque. Tours cost between S30 and S50, depending on whether entrance fees to museums are included.
Moche Tours (22-4637; mochetours_chiclayo@hotmail.com; Calle 7 de Enero; 8am-2pm & 5-8pm) This new tour office has cheap daily tours with Spanish- and English-speaking guides.
Sipán Tours (22-9053, sipantours@terra.com.pe; Calle 7 de Enero 772; 8am-1pm & 4-8pm) Has guided tours in Spanish.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Hospedaje San Lucas (49-9269; Aguirre 412; s/d S20/30, s without bathroom S10) Elementary, but kept trim and tidy, this shoestringer steps up successfully to its ‘Welcome Backpackers’ motto. There’s a nice city view from the top floor, mostly hot showers and some locally made handicrafts for sale at the reception.
Hotel Royal (23-3421; San José 787; s/d S25/40) This is the choice for aficionados of old, run-down, characterful hotels right on the Plaza de Armas. The only thing royal about this hotel is its elegant visiting card, but it does have large rooms, hot water and a TV room downstairs. Some rooms overlook the plaza, which is fun but noisy.
Pirámide Real (22-4036; piramidereal@hotmail.com; Izaga 726; s/d S30/40) Blink and you’ll miss the tiny entrance to this place. If you do find it, inside you’ll see tidy rooms with cable TV and hot water – a reasonably good deal at this price range. Romanesque statues fill the halls and add some kind of personality to the hotel – though we’re still undecided as to what kind.
Hostal Victoria (22-5642; Izaga 933; s/d/tr S30/45/55) This is a great find just east of the main plaza. It’s quiet, sanitary and has colorful rooms spruced up by nice bits of furniture. Lots of potted plants breathe some life to the indoors and there’s a friendly family vibe to the whole place.
Hostal Santa Catalina (27-2119; Vicente de la Vega 1127; s/d S35/42.50) The 10 rooms here,