Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [297]
Stay at Hostal Garuda (45-2964; Quiñones 109; s/d S35/60). In a well-preserved colonial house, this hostal has excellent rooms sporting some refined aesthetics and enormous bathrooms. It’s a block back from the coast.
At Playa las Rocas, a 20-minute walk south, sprawls Katuwira Lodge (97-972-3360, 97-973-7961; www.katuwira.com; campsites/r without bathroom per person S15/30, both incl full board), a funky, hippyish beachside hangout made of bamboo and sporting vibes and art in equal measures. Katuwira has distinctive pyramid bungalows sleeping five to seven people, complete with beautifully finished bamboo lounges downstairs and bedrooms with awesome sea views upstairs. There are a few smaller double rooms and some rudimentary lean-to singles (think castaway style). This is the place to arrange fishing trips with local fishermen in their caballitos, to learn handicrafts from local artisans and to eat some sensationally prepared meals. It’s run by the helpful Mario, who speaks English, Japanese and French, and who also organizes occasional cultural shows, beach bonfires and surf lessons in nearby Pimentel.
A few kilometers south of Pimentel is Santa Rosa, a busy fishing village where caballitos can also be seen among the brightly colored modern fishing fleet. It’s famed for its chicha (fermented corn beer), and with 28 different types of chicha to sample, you’re bound to find one to your liking (unless, of course, you pass out before you do). The local delicacy tortilla de raya (stingray tortilla) is worth sampling. There’s great surfing just south of here at El Faro. You can walk from Pimentel to Santa Rosa in less than an hour, but walking along the empty beach here is not recommended for security reasons; it’s best to take a colectivo taxi (S2).
Colectivos from Santa Rosa head south to the small port of Puerto Etén, once an important commercial center. Legend has it that Jesus himself appeared here in 1649; the small Capilla del Milagro (Chapel of the Miracle) now stands in that spot. Check out the 19th-century train engine in the (disused) train station.
You can return to Chiclayo via the village of Monsefú, 15km south of Chiclayo. Monsefú is known for its flowers and handicrafts, and has an artisanal market selling hats, bags and baskets made of straw and rattan, as well as ponchos and cotton goods. A craft festival called Fexticum is held in the last week of July. The simple and rustic Restaurant Tradiciones is recommended for good local fare.
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EL NIÑO
The weather phenomenon known as El Niño (the Baby) has played a ferocious role in the history of coastal Peru. El Niño is a major fluctuation in the surface temperature of the eastern Pacific Ocean that occurs roughly every two to seven years. The phenomenon was called El Niño since it appears on the South American coast around Christmastime.
Lasting for up to two years, El Niño wreaks havoc with heavy, unremitting rains and floods along Peru’s coast. It played a significant role in the collapse of both the Sicán and Moche civilizations.
El Niño still manages to mess things up today; as recently as 1998, and to a lesser extent in 2003, months of rain deluged northern Peru, washing away much of the infrastructure of that region (including roads, bridges and entire towns) and destroying nearly all of the coast’s crops.
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Transportation to Pimentel leaves regularly from Chiclayo’s minibus terminal (S2, 25 minutes); during summer (January to March), they continue