Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [298]
Sipán
The story of Sipán reads like an Indiana Jones movie script: buried treasure, huaqueros, police, archaeologists and at least one killing. The archaeological site (80-0048; adult S8; 9am-5pm), also known as Huaca Rayada, was discovered by huaqueros (Click here) from the nearby hamlet of Sipán. When local archaeologist Dr Walter Alva saw a huge influx of intricate objects on the black market in early 1987, he realized that an incredible burial site was being ransacked in the Chiclayo area. Careful questioning led Dr Alva to the Sipán mounds. To the untrained eye the mounds look like earthen hills, but in AD 300 these were huge truncated pyramids constructed from millions of adobe bricks.
At least one major tomb had already been pillaged by looters, but fast protective action by local archaeologists and police stopped further plundering. Luckily several other, even better, tombs that the grave robbers had missed were unearthed, including an exceptional royal Moche burial which became known as the Lord of Sipán. One huaquero was shot and killed by police in the early, tense days of the struggle over the graves. The Sipán locals were not too happy at losing what they considered their treasure trove. To solve this problem, the locals were invited to train to become excavators, researchers and guards at the site, which now provides steady employment to many of them. The full story has been detailed by Dr Alva in the October 1988 and June 1990 issues of National Geographic, and the May 1994 issue of Natural History.
The Lord of Sipán turned out to be a major leader of the Moche people, indicated by his elaborate burial in a wooden coffin surrounded by hundreds of gold, ceramic and semi-precious mineral objects, as well as an entourage consisting of his wife, two girls, a boy, a military chief, a flag-bearer, two guards, two dogs and a llama. Another important tomb held the sacerdote (priest), who was accompanied into the afterlife with an equally impressive quantity of treasures, as well as a few children, a guardian whose feet were cut off and a headless llama. Archaeologists don’t understand why the body parts were removed, but they believe that important members of the Moche upper class took with them in death those who composed their retinues in life.
Some of the tombs have been restored with replicas to show what they looked like just before being closed up more than 1500 years ago. Opposite the entrance is a new Museo de Sitio Sipán (admission S8; entrance included in site ticket; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri), opened in January 2009, which is worth a visit – but note that the most impressive artifacts, such as the Lord of Sipán and the Sacerdote, were placed in the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán in Lambayeque, after going on world tour. Spanish- and English-speaking guides can be hired (S15).
Daily guided tours are available from tour agencies (Click here) in Chiclayo for around S50. Alternately, buses for Sipán (S2.50) leave frequently from Chiclayo’s Terminal de Microbuses Epsel.
Lambayeque
074 / pop 47,900
About 11km north of Chiclayo, Lambayeque was once the main town in the area but now plays second fiddle to Chiclayo.
SIGHTS
The town’s museums are its best feature. La Casa de Logia, a block south of the main plaza, has a 67m-long, 400-year-old balcony, said to be the longest balcony in Peru. The two museums in Lambayeque are both within a 15-minute walk of the plaza.
Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán
Opened in November 2002, the Museum of the Royal Tombs of Sipán (28-3977, 28-3988; admission adult/child S10/3; 9am-5pm Tue-Sun, last admission 4pm) is the pride of northern Peru – as well it should be. With its burgundy pyramid construction rising gently out of the earth, it’s a world-class facility specifically designed to showcase the marvelous finds from Sipán. Photography is not permitted and all bags must be checked.
Visitors are guided through the museum from the top down