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and are shown some of the numerous discoveries from the tomb in the same order that the archaeologists found them. The first hall contains detailed ceramics representing gods, people, plants, llamas and other animals. Descending to the 2nd floor there are delicate objects like impossibly fine turquoise-and-gold ear ornaments showing ducks, deer and the Lord of Sipán himself. The painstaking and advanced techniques necessary to create this jewelry place them among the most beautiful and important objects of pre-Columbian America. Finally, the ground floor features exact reproductions of how the tombs were found. Numerous dazzling objects are displayed, the most remarkable of which are the gold pectoral plates representing sea creatures such as the octopus and crab. Even the sandals of the Lord of Sipán were made of precious metals, as he was carried everywhere and never had to walk. Interestingly, since nobility were seen as part-animal god, they used the nariguera (a distinctive nose shield) to conceal their very human teeth – and the fact that they were no different from everyone else.

The lighting and layout is exceptional, especially a large, moving diorama of the Lord of Sipán and his retinue – down to the barking Peruvian hairless dogs. The signage is all in Spanish, but English-speaking guides are available for S20.

Bruning Museum

This museum (28-2110, 28-3440; adult S8; 9am-5pm), once a regional archaeological showcase, is now greatly overshadowed by the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán; however, it still houses a good collection of artifacts from the Chimú, Moche, Chavín and Vicus cultures. Budding archaeologists will enjoy the displays showing the development of ceramics from different cultures and the exhibits explaining how ceramics and metalwork were made. Architecture and sculpture lovers may find some interest in the Corbusier-inspired building, bronze statues and tile murals adorning the property. Models of several important sites are genuinely valuable for putting the archaeology of the region into perspective. English-speaking guides charge S15.

EATING

El Rincón del Pato (28-2751; Leguía 270; meals S6-16; 11am-3pm) This place also gets the thumbs-up from people who are authorized to give such ratings for good ceviches, grills and local specialties.

El Cantaro (28-2196, Calle 2 de Mayo 180; mains S10-18; 10am-6pm) Continue past La Casa de Logia to this popular local restaurant with typical food and good service. When we were there one guest said that the sudado de pescado (whole fish stew) was the best dish he’d had in all of South America.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

The minibus terminal at the corner of San José and Lora y Lora in Chiclayo has regular buses to Lambayeque (S1.50, 20 minutes), which will drop you off a block from Bruning Museum.

Ferreñafe

074 / pop 34,500

This old town, 18km northeast of Chiclayo, is worth visiting for the excellent Museo Nacional Sicán (28-6469; www.sican.perucultural.org.pe; adult S8; 9am-5pm Tue-Sun). Sicán culture thrived in the Lambayeque area between AD 750 and 1375 (Click here), around the same time as the Chimú. The main Sicán site at Batán Grande lies in remote country to the north and is best visited on a tour from Chiclayo (Click here) or Pacora (Click here). This splendid museum displays replicas of the 12m-deep tombs found there, among the largest tombs found in South America. Enigmatic burials were discovered within – the Lord of Sicán was buried upside down, in a fetal position with his head separated from his body. Beside him were the bodies of two women and two adolescents, as well a sophisticated security system to ward off grave robbers: the red-colored sinabrio dust, which is toxic if inhaled. Another important tomb contained a nobleman sitting in a cross-legged position and wearing a mask and headdress of gold and feathers, surrounded by smaller tombs and niches containing the bodies of one man and 22 young women. The museum is worth the ride out and it’s never crowded. Guided tours from Chiclayo to Ferreñafe and Túcume cost around S50 per person, or