Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [314]
Punto Pollo (9662-6647; Piura 609; ¼ chicken S8; 6pm-midnight) Arguably the best pollería in town – and who are we to argue?
Hnos Lama (25-8215; Grau 503; meals S10-15; 8am-8pm) The best of three Lama restaurants, all owned by different family members, this one is owned by Orlando and has a reputation for some of the best ceviche (what else?) in town. It’s opposite the Eppo terminal.
Las Gemelitas (51-6115; Bastidas 154; mains S10-22; 11am-9pm) Three blocks off the Pan-American Hwy, behind the Cruz del Sur office, this cane-walled restaurant does great seafood and nothing else. Ceviches and chicharrones are the specialty, and the portions are ginormous.
Chan Chan (25-8146; Piura 384; meals S15-24; 6:30-11pm Wed-Mon) Run by Italian chef Udo, this Italian eatery has a cozy atmosphere and lots of bright, white, curving adobe walls smartly decorated with tasteful art. The food here is great, the pizzas look like the real, thin-crust deal and the service is very attentive – it’s well worth the splurge. Get here early for a breezy patio seat. To find it, look out for the palm-frond-concealed frontage.
Sunset (25-8111; mains S15-35; 8am-11pm) With a short menu of excellent Italian food, this is the most gourmet restaurant in town when the Italian chef is on, but disappointing when he isn’t. It’s in the hotel of the same name.
El Espada (25-8338; Piura, cuadra 5; mains S18-29; 11am-8pm) This place, with two locations close to one another, is among the most tourist-oriented seafood eateries in the center. Similar places are nearby.
Getting There & Away
AIR
LAN flies from Talara, a 40-minute bus ride south of Máncora, to Lima with a stop in Cajamarca. The flight leaves the capital at 12:30pm and returns from Talara at 3:30pm.
BUS
Many bus offices are in the center, though most southbound trips originate in Tumbes. Combis leave for Tumbes (S5.50, two hours) regularly; they drive along the main drag until full. Bus-camas from Máncora go direct to Lima (14 hours); other services can drop you in intermediate cities on the way to Lima (16 hours). Regular minibuses run between Máncora and Punta Sal (30 minutes).
Cial (25-8558; Piura 654) Has Lima-bound buses at 3pm (S45), 7pm (S90 to S108) and 8pm (S63 to S72).
Civa (01-9805-5131; Piura 688) Has an economical 3:30pm service to Lima (S45), as well as a nicer bus at 5:30pm (S81).
Cruz del Sur (25-8232; Grau 208) Has a bus-cama service to Lima at 6:30pm (S100 to S145).
El Dorado (25-8582; Grau 111) Six buses a day to Piura (S18, 2½ hours) with fast transfers to Chiclayo (S29, six hours) and Trujillo (S28, nine hours).
Eppo (25-8027; Grau 470) Fast and regular hourly buses to Talara (S5.50, 1½ hours), Sullana (S9, 2½ hours) and Piura (S11, 3½ hours) between 4am and 7pm.
Oltursa (25-8267; Piura 509) Lima bus-cama (S100 to S150) at 6pm.
Ormeño (25-8334; Piura 611) Lima buses (S75 to S108) at 2:30pm and 7:30pm. Also has buses direct to Quito (S100, 16 hours) at 6am on Wednesdays and Fridays, and direct service to Guayaquil (S35, seven to nine hours).
Tepsa (25-8043; Grau 113) Lima bus (S85) at 4pm.
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PUNTA SAL
072 / pop 3300
The long, curvy bay at Punta Sal, 25km north of Máncora, has fine sand and is dotted with rocky bits – but it’s still great for a dip in the ocean. The sea here is calm and the lack of surfer types means that this tranquil oasis of resorts is particularly popular with families.
One of the few budget options on this beach, Las Terrazas (54-0001; lasterrazaspuntasal@yahoo.com; r per person S25) has solid rooms inside the main house, as well as some poky small bamboo rooms at the back, all for the same price – choose wisely! The terrace restaurant here has awesome sunset views.
A wooden sundeck nearly hangs out over the sea at Sunset Punta Sal (54-0004; www.hotelsunsetpuntasal.com; r per person with breakfast/full board S45/70) and is indeed a great place to admire