Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [315]
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THE NORTH COAST’S TOP FIVE SURF BREAKS
Dedicated surfers will find plenty of action on Peru’s North Coast, from the longest break in the world at Puerto Chicama to consistently good surf at Máncora. Most spots have reliable swell from April to October. For the inside scoop on surfing throughout Peru.
Los Organos (Click here) A rocky break with well-formed tubular waves reaching up to 2m; it’s for experienced surfers only.
Cabo Blanco (Click here) A perfect pipeline ranging between 1m and 3m in height and breaking on rocks; again, experienced surfers only.
Puerto Chicama (Click here) On a good day, this is the longest break in the world (up to 2km!); it has good year-round surfing for all skill levels.
Máncora (Click here) Popular and easily accessible, with consistently decent surf up to 2m high; it’s appropriate for all skill levels.
Huanchaco (Click here) Long and well-formed waves with a pipeline; it’s suitable for all skill levels.
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Hotel Bucanero (54-0118; www.elbucaneropuntasal.com; s/d with breakfast S66/99; ) Has 14 rooms by the beach, each with cold shower, fan and patio or balcony. The hotel has a game room, TV room, restaurant, two bars, a grassy garden and a lookout with an ocean seascape. Rates include a welcome drink.
The 23 ocean-view rooms at Hotel Caballito de Mar (54-0048, in Lima 01-446-3122; www.hotelcaballitodemar.com; r per person incl full board S225-285; ) literally climb up the sea cliff and have pretty bamboo accents and private patios. Hit the restaurant, bar, Jacuzzi, TV room, games room and the gorgeous pool that practically dips its toe into the sea. Activities such as fishing, boating, horseback riding, waterskiing and surfing can be arranged.
Off the Pan-American Hwy at Km 1192, the seaside Punta Sal Club Hotel (54-0088; www.puntasal.com.pe; s/d per person incl full board S252/420; ) has the full-service deal. Perfect for families, it has mini-golf, laundry facilities, banana-boat rides, waterskiing, tennis, volleyball, table tennis, billiards and a wooden-decked pool – and what resort would be complete without a near-life-size replica of a conquistador galleon? It also offers deep-sea fishing trips for US$600 per day in a boat that will take up to six anglers.
Regular minibuses run between Máncora and Punta Sal (30 minutes).
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ZORRITOS
072 / pop 9400
About 35km south of Tumbes, Zorritos is the biggest fishing village along this section of coast. While the thin beach here isn’t as nice as beaches further south, it is home to interesting coastal birdlife. Look for frigate birds, pelicans, egrets and other migratory birds.
A few kilometers south of central Zorritos is Hostel Casa Grillo (9-764-2836; www.casagrillo.net; Pan-American Hwy, Km 1236; r per person with/without bathroom S21/15), which has basic rooms and a seaside camping set-up. It has a restaurant with vegetarian specials (sandwiches S3 to S6, mains S8 to S25) and information about tours to nearby national reserves. Horseback riding and hiking to nearby mud baths can also be arranged. The hostel runs popular five-day hostal-and-camping tours that take in beaches, trekking, lagoons and mud baths and cost only S525 per person – including everything! Longer trips are also available.
At Km 1235 is Tres Puntas Ecological Tourist Center (9764-2836; campsites S15, r with/without bathroom per person S55/40). Constructed (mainly by volunteers) from natural materials such as bamboo and cane, everything here, including water, is recycled. Breezy, rustic cabins with balconies and hammocks sit on the beach, and campsites have electricity and a shade roof. All rooms share interesting outdoor communal bathrooms covered in mosaic tiles and seashells. Dog-lovers should ask the owner to show you his 14 Peruvian hairless