Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [316]
Right in Zorritos, Puerta del Sol (54-4294; hosppuertadelsol@hotmail.com; s/d S29/41) is a skinny little hospedaje that is just too lovely for words. It has a miniature garden dissected by a winding, yellow-brick path and patches of vibrant lawn. The only accessory missing is a garden gnome. The rooms are simple and neat and beach access is available, but there are no views.
Midrange choices include the beachfront Hotel Los Cocos (9867-1259; www.hotelloscocos.com; Panamericana Km 1242; s/d/t incl full board S90/120/180; ), with big rooms filled with bamboo furniture, a few arty bits, and sporting balconies with hammocks and sea vistas. The pool has rock features and a separate children’s section. There’s also a small kids’ play area, a trampoline and a beach-volleyball court here.
Costa Azul (54-4268; www.costaazulperu.com; s/d/t S225/255/390) is a huge sprawling complex of various-sized Spartan bungalows, all with TV. Some sleep up to six people and sit right on the beach.
Combis to Zorritos leave regularly from Tumbes (S2, about one hour). Coming from the south, just catch any bus heading toward Tumbes.
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TUMBES
072 / pop 128,600
Only 30km from the Ecuadorean border, Tumbes is in a uniquely green part of coastal Peru, where dry deserts magically turn into mangroves and an expanse of ecological reserves stretches in all directions. It’s also the springboard for trips to the excellent and popular beaches of Máncora, two hours further south.
A flashpoint for conflict during the 1940–41 border war between Ecuador and Peru, Tumbes remains a garrison town with a strong military presence. It’s hot and (depending on the season) dusty or buggy, and most travelers don’t stay long. The nearby national reserves are distinctive and a boon for nature buffs.
Tumbes was an Inca town when it was first sighted by Pizarro in 1528. Pizarro invited an Inca noble to dine aboard his ship and sent ashore two of his men, who reported the existence of an obviously well-organized and fabulously rich civilization. Based on those accounts Pizarro returned a few years later to begin his conquest of Peru. Present-day Tumbes is about 5km northeast of the old Inca city, which is marked on maps as San Pedro de los Incas. The Panamericana passes through the site, but there is little to see.
Despite its interesting history, Tumbes’s only real appeal is its convenient access to the ecological reserves. If you’re headed to beaches south of here, keep going and avoid this unpleasant pit stop if you can.
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WARNING: BORDER-CROSSING BLUES
Shady practices at the border crossing between Ecuador and Peru at Aguas Verdes have earned it the dubious title of ‘the worst border crossing in South America.’ Whether it deserves to wear that crown is hard to prove empirically, but it pays to be wary.
Try not to change dollars into soles here as ‘fixed’ calculators are common and many bills offered to foreigners are fake (Click here). If you must change money, find out the exchange rate before you arrive and change just enough to get you to the nearest bank in Tumbes. Ignore ‘helpful’ advice along the lines of ‘you can’t change dollars in Tumbes,’ ‘the banks are closed,’ ‘there’s a strike,’ or ‘Tumbes is flooded.’
Taxi drivers will use similarly persuasive methods to convince you that combis and colectivo taxis aren’t running. Overcharging here can be audacious. Combis run from the border to Tumbes all day and charge S1.50, and a colectivo costs around S2.50 per person or about S14 for the whole taxi. Establish a price before you get into the vehicle and make sure it covers the fare all the way to Tumbes, not just to the immigration post 3km away.
A rule of thumb for getting across this border without being scammed is to take a direct bus across the border; jump off at immigration to get stamped in or out and get back on the bus immediately. If you must make a connection, however, use only combis and colectivos and stay out of situations where you are the only passenger, even in a