Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [317]
Many people will offer their services as porters or guides. Most are annoyingly insistent, so unless you really need help, they are best avoided.
Remember that there are no entry fees into either country. If the border guards say otherwise, always be polite but insistent in your refusal to pay.
* * *
Information
Apart from offering tours to local sights, Tumbes tour companies can also provide some tourist information.
Banco Continental (52-3914; Bolívar 129)
BCP (52-5060; Bolívar 261) Changes traveler’s checks and has an ATM.
Clinica Feijoo (52-5341; Castilla 305) One of the better medical clinics in Tumbes.
Ecuadorean consul (52-5949; Bolívar 129, 3rd fl; 9am-1pm & 4-6pm Mon-Fri) On the Plaza de Armas.
Ministerio de Turismo (52-3699, 52 4940; Bolognesi 194, 2nd fl) Provides useful tourist information, especially for the nearby ecological reserves.
Oficina de Migraciónes (52-3422; Tumbes 1751) Along the Pan-American Hwy, 2km north of town. Does visa extensions.
Plaz@Net (Bolívar 161; per hr S1; 8am-11pm) Internet access.
Police (52-5250; Tumbes 1742) Located north of town.
Post office (52-3866; San Martín 208; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) On the block south of Plaza Bolognesi.
Dangers & Annoyances
The border crossing has a bad reputation. For detailed warnings, see the boxed text, opposite.
Sights
There are several old houses dating from the early 19th century on Grau, east of the Plaza de Armas. These rickety abodes are made of split-bamboo and wood and it seems like they are defying gravity by sheer will. The plaza has several outdoor restaurants and is a nice place to relax. The pedestrian streets north of the plaza (especially Bolívar) have several large, modern monuments and are favorite hangouts for young and old alike.
About 5km south of town, off the Pan-American Hwy, is an overgrown archaeological site that was the home of the Tumpis people and, later, the site of the Inca fort visited by Pizarro. The story is told in the tiny site museum, Museo de Cabeza de Baca (adult S2; 9am-2pm Mon-Sat), which also displays some 1500-year-old ceramic vessels.
Tours & Guides
The following companies run various local tours, including trips to the reserves.
Cocodrilos Tours (52-4133; cocodrilostours@terramail.com.pe; Huáscar 309; 8am-1pm & 4-8pm) Does tours to the reserves as well as to local beaches, mud baths and Puerto Pizarro.
Preference Tours (52-4757; turismomundial@terra.com.pe; Grau 427; 8:30am-1pm & 5-7pm) Runs some of the most economical tours in town if you have a group of three or more.
Tumbes Tours (52-6086; www.tumbestours.com; Tumbes 341; 8am-1pm & 4-8pm)
Sleeping
Almost all of Tumbes’ hotels are in the budget range and most hotels have only cold water, but that’s no problem in the heat. Be sure your room has a working fan if you’re here in the sweltering summer (December to March). During the wet season and the twice-yearly rice harvests, mosquitoes can be a big problem, and there are frequent water and electricity outages.
BUDGET
Tumbes abounds with budget options, ranging from barely acceptable to pretty good value. In the lower end of the budget range, watch your valuables carefully.
Hospedaje Franco (52-5295; San Martín 107; s/d S18/28) Clean enough and quieter than most, this place made some tile vendor very wealthy – they cover nearly every surface. TV costs S5 extra.
Hospedaje Tumbes (52-2203; Grau 614; s/d S20/32) Dark but welcoming, the good-sized rooms here have fans. The walls are decorated with oh-so-hip ’80s posters; a few plants help spruce the place up. TV costs S5 extra.
Hospedaje Italia (52-3396; Grau 733; d S25) The Italia is a good deal for double rooms, each of which has plenty of natural light and space, tiled floors and TVs as standard.
Hospedaje Florián (52-2464; Piura 414; s/d S28/40)