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to Laguna Parón (Click here), which is ravishingly surrounded by glaciated peaks; and a fourth travels through Caraz to see the massive Puya raimondii plant (Click here) and then continues on to Nevado Pastoruri, where you can view ice caves, glaciers and mineral springs.

Any of these trips cost between S25 and S35 each; prices may vary depending on the number of people going, but typically include transport (usually in minibuses) and a guide (who may or may not speak English). Admission fees and lunch are extra. Trips take a full day; bring a packed lunch, warm clothes, drinking water and sunblock. Tours depart daily during the high season, but at other times departures depend on demand.

Out of the throng of agencies in Huaraz, Pablo Tours (42-1145; pablotours@terra.com.pe; Luzuriaga 501), Huaraz Chavín Tours (42-1578; hct@chavintours.com.pe; Luzuriaga 502) and Sechín Tours (42-1419; www.sechintours.com; Morales 602), which also has a satellite office in Casma, have fairly solid reputations.

Trekking & Mountaineering

Mountaineers and trekkers should check out Casa de Guías (42-1811; www.casadeguias.com.pe; Plaza Ginebra 28G, Huaraz; 7-11am & 5-11pm), the headquarters of the Mountain Guide Association of Peru, for a list of certified guides. All of the agencies below arrange full trekking and climbing expeditions that include guides, equipment, food, cooks, porters and transport. Depending on the number of people, the length of your trip and what’s included, expect to pay from under S50 to S150 per person per day. Try not to base your selection solely on price, as is often the case you get what you pay for. The list below is by no means exhaustive; things change, good places go bad and bad places get good. One of the best resources for guides in Huaraz is other travelers who have just come back from a trek and can recommend (or not recommend) their guides based on recent experience. The South American Explorers Club in Lima (Click here) is also an excellent source of information and maps.

Also Click here and the boxed text, Click here.

Active Peru (42-3339; www.activeperu.com; Gamarra 699) Run by the Belgian Dennis, who has a good reputation.

Andean Kingdom (42-5555; www.andeankingdom.com; Luzuriaga 522) One of the cheapest and more popular agencies in town. Be sure to double-check the equipment here and confirm exactly what’s included in your trip before you set off.

Galaxia Expeditions (42-5335; Parque Periodista) Peruvian-run agency with a fine reputation and good gear. Also does local tours, climbing trips and has an indoor climbing wall.

Huascarán (42-2523; Campos 711) Gets repeatedly good reviews from satisfied travelers; also does tours.

Montañero (42-6386; Parque Ginebra) This good agency arranges treks and climbs. It also rents or sells gear.

Monttrek (42-1124; www.monttrek.com; Luzuriaga 646, 2nd fl) A reputable agency that has lots of local information and arranges rock climbing, mountain biking and parapenting trips.

Community Tourism

In addition to the mountain lodges, the following agencies are involved in community tourism and can help you set up trips to learn about traditional weaving, farming, cooking and most other aspects of indigenous life. Almost anything you do with these agencies will benefit local families and contribute to the growing community-tourism movement in the region.

Incaroca Travel (77-0843; www.incaroca.it, in Italian) A highly recommended trekking company that leads many European groups through tiny, high-altitude villages and engages indigenous youth in tourism projects. The eight brothers speak almost any language you can throw at them, including Quechua, English and most modern European idioms. They don’t have an office, but contact them in town or ahead of your arrival to get information.

Mountain Institute (42-3446; mtorres@mountain.org; Ricardo Palma 100) Arranges excellent trips to the Inca Trail (Click here).

Respons Sustainable Tourism Center (42-7949; Calle 28 de Julio 821; www.respons.org; 9am-1pm & 3-7:30pm) Works as a clearinghouse for information about community

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