Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [327]
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Semana Santa (Holy Week) is very busy, with Peruvian tourists flooding to town. On the Tuesday before Easter there’s a day of intense water fights. (Stay inside your hotel if you don’t want to get soaked.) Ash Wednesday is much more interesting and colorful, with funeral processions for ño carnavalón (king of carnival) converging on the Plaza de Armas. Here, his ‘will’ is read, giving the opportunity for many jabs at local politicians, police and other dignitaries, before the procession continues to the river where the coffin is thrown in. Participants dress in colorful costumes with papier-mâché heads, some of which are recognizable celebrities.
Huaraz pays homage to its patron, El Señor de la Soledad (The Christ of Solitude), beginning May 3. This weeklong festival involves fireworks, music, dancing, elaborately costumed processions and lots of drinking.
Semana de Andinismo is held annually in June. It attracts mountaineers from several countries and competitions and exhibitions are held.
SLEEPING
The prices given here are average high (dry) season rates. Hotel prices can double during holiday periods and rooms become very scarce. Perhaps because Huaraz is seen as a trekking, climbing and backpacking center, budget hotels predominate.
Budget
Especially during the high season, locals meet buses from Lima and offer inexpensive accommodations in their houses. Hostels also employ individuals to meet buses, but beware of scams or overpricing – don’t pay anybody until you’ve seen the room.
Hospedaje Ezama (42-3490; ezama_623@yahoo.es; Melgar 623; dm/s/d S10/15/25) Going north of town on Centenario and then right on Melgar brings you to this quiet, friendly, seven-room place that has spacious rooms and good hard beds. Hot water and tourist information are available.
Oscar’s Hostal (42-2720; José de La Mar 624; r per person S12-18) Centrally located, Oscar’s offers passable rooms with TV – though noise from the outside can be an issue.
Jo’s Place (42-5505; www.josplacehuaraz.com; Villazón 278; dm S15, s/d S30/45, s/d without bathroom S25/35) Bright splashes of color and a rambling grassy area mark this informal and slightly chaotic place. Popular with trekkers and climbers (camping is allowed and there’s plenty of room to dry out your gear), it has four floors linked by spindly staircases that lead to a warren of basic rooms, only some with bathrooms. Owner Jo provides UK newspapers, makes bacon and eggs for breakfast and has free coffee on tap.
Familia Meza Lodging (42-6763; Lúcar y Torre 538; s/d S15/30) In the same building as Café Andino and Mountain Bike Adventures, this charming family guest house has cheery rooms and is decorated throughout with homey, frilly touches. What’s more, the owners are friendly and helpful enough to cure the worst bout of homesickness. Hot showers are shared and there’s a top-floor communal area with a small kitchen.
Cayesh Guesthouse (42-8821; www.cayesh.net; Morales 867; s/d from S25/40) The folks at Cayesh take backpackers’ delights seriously, offering an extensive DVD library, free kitchen use and luggage storage. The rooms are simple but have comfortable beds from which you can gander at the views of magnificent peaks.
Albergue Churup (42-2584; www.churup.com; Figueroa 1257; dm S25 s/d incl breakfast S65/90) This immensely popular family-run hostel continues to win the top budget-choice accolade. Immaculate and comfortable rooms share cushy, colorful lounging areas on every floor. The building is topped by a massive, fireplace-warmed lounge space with magnificent 180-degree views of the Cordillera. If that isn’t enough, the affable Quirós family has built a sauna, there’s a cafe and bar, communal kitchen, a pretty garden, a book exchange, laundry facilities and a travel office that rents out trekking gear and arranges Spanish lessons. Reservations are advised.
Aldo’s Guest House (42-5355; Morales 650; r per person S30) Budget travelers love little