Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [329]
Olaza’s Bed & Breakfast (42-2529; www.olazas.com; Arguedas 1242; s/d S70/90;) This smart little hotel has a boutique feel, spacious bathrooms and comfortable beds, but the best part is the big lounge area upstairs and great breakfasts (not included) on the terrace. The owner is an established figure in the Huaraz trekking and tourism scene and he can point you in the direction no matter where you want to go.
Grand Hotel Huaraz (42-2227; grandhotel@terra.com.pe; Larrea y Loredo 721; s/d S70/110; ) The spiffy Grand Hotel Huaraz is a little short on personality, but the solid rooms have everything you’ll need for a comfortable stay.
Hotel El Tumi (42-1784, 42-1852; www.hoteleltumi.com; San Martín 1121; s/d S85/150; ) If serious businesspeople lodged in chalets, this large and comfortable establishment is where they would flock. The rooms are handsomely finished with dark wood, come with cable TV and many have great mountain views. It all has a cozy retreat feel. Downstairs there’s a lounge, posh restaurant with room service and wi-fi for laptopping mountain-road warriors.
Piramide Hotel (42-8250, 42-5801; Plaza Ginebra U22; s/d/ste incl breakfast S105/136/180) This is a modern hotel with phones and TVs and some rooms have balconies looking out into the plaza or toward the mountains. There’s a restaurant with room service and rates include an American breakfast.
Steel Guest House (42-9709; www.steelguest.com; Pasaje Maguina 1467; s/d S108/141; ) Staying here is a little like landing at your grandma’s house: the rooms are frilly and white-glove clean and the owner tends to dote on her guests. Loads of facilities round out the offerings, including cable TV, outdoor hammocks, billiards, sauna and a roof terrace.
Hotel La Joya (42-5527; www.hotellajoya.com; San Martín 1187; s/d S120/220; ) With true, glittering ’80s panache, this towering, mirror-lined monolith offers hotel-standard rooms, with TV and writing desk. There’s a very cheesy but comfortable lounge downstairs with endless muzak on tap. The top-floor rooms come with views and for some reason a disturbing statue of a mountaineer guards the elevator.
San Sebastián (42-6960; Italia 1124; s/d incl breakfast S150/170) A fetching white-walled and red-roofed building with balconies and arches overlooking a grassy garden and an inner courtyard with a soothing fountain – this four-story hotel is a neocolonial architectural find. All rooms have a writing desk, good beds, hot shower and TV on request. A few rooms have balconies.
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MOUNTAIN RETREATS
If trudging around the mountains for days at a time doesn’t appeal to you, a good alternative is to make a home right among them. These mountain lodges let you explore deep in the stunning hills by day, and still come back to a comfortable bed every night.
Way Inn Lodge (42-8714; www.thewayinn.com/lodge.htm; camping S15, dm S32-35, bungalows S120-180, all incl breakfast) Extremely popular with travelers of all stripes for many years, the Way Inn Lodge’s rooms range from bunks in one of their Flintstone-esque ‘cave’ rooms to deluxe, well-appointed bungalows with fireplaces. A hand-built sauna and hot tub round off the long list of facilities rather nicely. There’s tons of information here about one-day and multiday treks and trails you can do right from the front door, plus hiking equipment is available for rent. All rates include breakfast and other meals are available. Call ahead or visit its website for directions.
Lazy Dog Inn(978-9330; www.thelazydoginn.com; s/d without bathroom S120/180, d inside main house S240, 2-person cabins S260, all incl breakfast & dinner) Run by rugged and proud Canadians Diana and Wayne, this deluxe ecolodge is at the mouth of the Quebrada Llaca, 8km east of Huaraz. It’s made entirely of adobe and built by hand and you can stay in either comfortable double rooms in the main lodge or in fancier private cabins, which have fireplaces