Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [330]
See also the Llanganuco Mountain Lodge outside of Yungay (Click here), and three modest and remote refuges under the boxed text The Italian Connection (Click here).
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Hotel Colomba (42-7106, 42-1501; www.huarazhotel.com; Francisco de Zela 278; s/d S150/200) One of the best picks in town, the bungalows here are speckled around a dense and compulsively trimmed hedge forest. Each bungalow has a relaxing veranda, TV and telephone and the sprawling gardens conceal a kids’ playground, huge bird enclosures and a dainty restaurant.
Top End
Hotel Andino (42 1662; www.hotelandino.com; Pedro Cochachín 357; s/d S281/339, with balcony S314/388; ) All the immaculate, carpeted rooms at this Swiss-run hotel have great views and such mod cons as cable TV and hair dryers. Splurge on a room with a balcony if you can. The on-site restaurant, Chalet Suisse, serves international and Peruvian food in addition to Swiss specialties. It’s very popular with international trekking and climbing groups, and reservations can be hard to come by in high season.
EATING
Restaurant hours are flexible in Huaraz, with shorter opening times during low-season slow spells and longer hours at busy times.
Seeds of Hope Café (39-6305; www.peruseeds.org; breakfast from S4; Antunez 782; 7am-2pm) Who thought filling up on homemade granola and cakes would help a good cause? At this cafe, run by the aid organization Seeds of Hope (Click here), profits go toward its efforts to help needy children in Huaraz – and the coffee, tea and delicious breakfasts are tasty and healthy.
Pastelería Café Turmanyé (Morales 828; sandwiches S5-8, pastries S3-5; 8am-6pm) Serving paella, sandwiches and rich Spanish-style pastries and cakes, this little eatery also has the distinction of benefiting the local Arco Iris Foundation, which helps children and young mothers.
El Fogón (42-1267; Luzuriaga 928, 2nd fl; mains S6-15; noon-11pm) A bright, modern and slightly upscale twist on the traditional Peruvian grill house, this place will grill anything that moves – including the usual chicken, trout and rabbit and it does great anticuchos (shish kebabs). Everything is very tasty and the place gets packed nightly with Peruvians in on the secret. Vegetarians will go hungry though.
Café Andino (42-1203; www.cafeandino.com; Lúcar y Torre 530, 3rd fl; breakfast S6-20; 8am-8pm Tue-Sun;) This modern top-floor cafe has space and light in spades, comfy lounges, art, photos, books and groovy tunes – it’s the ultimate all-day hangout and meeting spot. You can get breakfast anytime (Belgian waffles – yum!) and this place is serious about its coffee, roasting its own. Ask Chris, the US owner, about information on trekking in the area and check out the message board for local info.
Pachamama (42-1834; San Martín 687; snacks & mains S6-22; 5pm-11pm) This warm and delightful restaurant-bar features a glass roof, plant-filled interior garden, fireplace, pool table, table tennis, art on the walls and giant chessboard on the floor. It’s a hip, fun and popular locale that may have live music and dancing at weekends (not folklórico!). The menu is Peruvian and international with a Swiss twist.
Piccolo (42-7306; Morales 632; mains S8-28; 7am-midnight) Very popular with gringos attracted to the outdoor pavement seating, friendly service and reasonable prices, the Piccolo is a cafe and pizzeria that moonlights as a restaurant. It has a good Italian and international menu, but make sure you see its Peruvian menu.
La Brasa Roja (42-7738; Luzuriaga 919; mains S9-21; noon-midnight Mon-Sat) This scrumptious pollería (restaurant specializing in roast chicken) is the ultimate budget refueling stop. The ‘Red-Hot Coals’ also serves up sandwiches, pastas and beef – but stick with the chicken, it’s what it does best.
Encuentro (79-7802; Morales 650; mains S10-22; 8am-11pm) One of three