Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [331]
California Café (42-8354; www.huaylas.com; Calle 28 de Julio 562; breakfast S12-18; 7:30am-7pm; ) Run by Tim, from California no less, this hip pad does breakfasts at any time, plus light lunches and salads – it’s a funky, chilled space to while away many hours. You can spend the day listening to the sublime world music collection or reading one of the hundreds of books available for exchange. Wi-fi is a godsend to laptop junkies and rich espressos and dozens of herbal teas will keep you sipping till closing time. Tim is active in the development of ecotourism in the Cordillera Huayhuash and is a goldmine of information on that area. He organizes ‘ultimate Frisbee’ games every Friday.
El Horno (42-4617; www.elhornopizzeria.com; Parque Periodista; pizzas S12-18, mains S12-26; 10am-11pm Mon-Sat) If you can cook it on a grill or in a wood oven, El Horno can make it sing. The different varieties of meat skewers and pizzas are the best picks here. The place often fills up with trekking groups, so arrive early or make a reservation.
Pizza Bruno (42-5689; Luzuriaga 834; pizza S12-28; 5-11pm) This French-owned pizzeria has nice pastas and big salads, but the pizzas taste like they are made by people who really know how to use a wood-fired oven and make a great sauce.
Siam de los Andes (40-9173; Gamarra 560; mains S12-38; 6-10pm) More expensive than many Huaraz restaurants, the authentic Thai fare is prepared by an infectiously cheery Thai chef and well worth the few extra soles. You’ll find everything from aromatic veggie soups to chicken satay (skewers with peanut sauce) to Pad Thai noodles with jumbo shrimp.
Crêperie Patrick (42-3364; Luzuriaga 422; mains around S15; 8am-10pm) This French-influenced place is recommended for crêpes, ice cream and continental dinners (trout, fondue, pasta). It has a rooftop patio that’s open in the mornings for enjoying breakfast under the sun.
Bistro de los Andes (42-6249; Plaza de Armas; mains from S18; 7:30am-11pm) This restaurant with a European air is owned by a multilingual Frenchman. It serves an international and Peruvian menu ranging from pancakes to pastas. Good coffees, delectable desserts, fabulous fish dishes – there’s something for everyone at any time of day. The service is excellent, a happy-hour special is always on offer and the long rows of tables along the windows look out onto the Plaza de Armas.
Monte Rosa/Inca Pub (42-1447; José de la Mar 661; mains S18-30; 11am-11pm) This warm, snug Swiss-run restaurant has an Alpine vibe; it does an international menu that includes fondue and raclette (melted cheese over potatoes or bread) as well as pizzas and Peruvian plates. If it’s full, service can be slow. The owner also sells Victorinox Swiss army knives.
Mercado Ortíz (cnr Luzuriaga & Raimondi; 8am-10pm) is a good supermarket to pick up goodies for trekking or self-catering.
DRINKING
Huaraz is the best place in this part of the Andes to take a load off and get pleasantly inebriated.
Los 13 Buhos (José de la Mar 812, 2nd fl; 5pm-late) Located upstairs from Makondos, the 13 Owls is a chilled-out bar that is the most popular place in town to kick back and chat in the early evening while listening to excellent, funky sounds. Warm lighting flickers over graffiti-covered walls and climbing paraphernalia clings to the rafters, while couches help you ease into the evening’s frivolities over a cold Crystal.
Vagamundo Travel Bar (Morales 753; 10am-late) Opens late morning and has erratic hours. Come in for a beer, snack and a game of foosball. Enjoy rock and blues while perusing the many maps on the walls, or sit outside on the patio.
Andean Garden Club (Luzuriaga 1032; 11am-6pm, high season only) Owned by the same people as the X-treme Bar, this laid-back option has an outdoor garden setting and sells beer and snacks, plus it has a climbing wall for the perennially