Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [332]
X-treme Bar (42-3150; Luzuriaga 1044, 2nd fl; 7pm-late) This classic watering hole hasn’t changed in years. Bizarre art, drunken graffiti, strong cocktails and good rock and blues keep things rambunctious well into the night as it fills to the brim with a steady stream of bodies.
ENTERTAINMENT
Discos and peñas (bars or clubs featuring folkloric music) abound around Huaraz, though names and levels of popularity change with the seasons.
El Tambo Bar (42-3417; José de la Mar 776; 9pm-4am) If you’re hankerin’ to shake your groove-thang, this is the most popular disco in town. Fashionable with both extranjeros (foreigners) and Peruvians, the music swings from techno-cumbia to Top 20, to salsa to reggae to most things in between – all in a space of 20 minutes. Occasional live bands also play. Although there’s no cover charge, you may want to consult your accountant before buying a round of drinks: the prices are astronomical.
Huaraz Satyricon (955-7343; Luzuriaga 1036; admission S5) This place may just be the world’s most perfect little cinema. A small and intimate space that has snug couches, fresh popcorn, snacks and espresso, it shows top-quality international and repertoire flicks (all with English subtitles) on a private projection screen. Look out for flyers around town advertising the changing schedule. Note that the theater may be shut for periods during low season.
SHOPPING
Inexpensive thick woolen sweaters, scarves, hats, socks, gloves, ponchos and blankets are available if you need to rug up for the mountains; many of these are sold at stalls on the pedestrian alleys off Luzuriaga or at the feria artesanal (artisans’ market) off the Plaza de Armas. Quality climbing gear and clothes are sold by several agencies that rent equipment and gear (Click here).
High-quality, attractive T-shirts with appropriately mountainous designs are made by Andean Expressions and sold at gift shops in Olaza’s Bed & Breakfast (Click here) and the Last Minute Gift Store (Lucar & Torre 530; 10am-1pm, 4-8pm Mon-Sat) – watch out for lower-quality imitators. Perú Magico (José Sucre btwn Farfán & Bolívar; 9am-2pm & 3-9pm Mon-Sat) has an assortment of jewelry, textiles and pottery from around the country. Tejidos Turmanyé (Morales 828; 8am-5pm) sells handsome locally made weavings and knit garments to support a foundation that provides occupational training to young mothers, and Respons Sustainable Tourism Center (Click here) hawks some pretty hip knits made by Huaraz-area artisans.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
LC Busre operates flights from Lima to Huaraz everyday at 8:40am; the return journey leaves at 10:20am. The Huaraz airport (ATA; 44 3095) is actually at Anta, 23km north of town. A taxi will cost about S12.
Bus
Combis for Caraz (S5, 1½ hours) leave every few minutes during the day from near the petrol station on Calle 13 de Diciembre. These will drop you in any of the towns along the way. Minibuses south along the Callejón de Huaylas to Recuay, Catac and other villages leave from the Transportes Zona Sur terminal on Gridilla at Calle 27 de Novembre.
A plethora of companies have departures for Lima (six to eight hours), so shop around for the price/class/time you prefer. Most depart midmorning or late evening. Some buses begin in Caraz and stop in Huaraz to pick up passengers. During high season it is recommended that you book your seats at least a day in advance.
Three bus routes reach Chimbote on the north coast. Most buses take the paved road to Pativilca (the same route as Lima-bound buses, eight hours) and then head north on the Pan-American Hwy. A second, bumpier route follows the Callejón de Huaylas and passes through the narrow, thrilling Cañón del Pato (eight to nine hours, Click here) before descending to the coast. A third route – and the roughest – crosses the 4225m-high Punta Callán (seven hours) and provides spectacular views of the Cordillera Blanca before plummeting down to Casma and pushing north.
Many small companies with brave, beat-up buses cross the Cordillera to the towns