Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [336]
How many people will be on our trek? Larger numbers mean lower prices, but make sure you’re comfortable trekking with a dozen strangers.
Can I check the equipment before we set off? If you don’t have your own sleeping bag, make sure that the one provided is long enough and warm enough (good to -15°C), and inspect the tents for holes and rain resistance.
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It often freezes at night, so make sure you have an adequately warm sleeping bag, wet-weather gear (needed year-round), and a brimmed hat and sunglasses. It’s best to bring strong sunblock and good insect repellant from home, as they’re difficult to find in Huaraz.
CORDILLERA BLANCA
One of the most breathtaking parts of the continent, the Cordillera Blanca is the world’s highest tropical mountain range and encompasses some of South America’s highest mountains. Andean leviathans include the majestic Nevado Alpamayo (5947m), once termed ‘the most beautiful mountain in the world’ by the German Alpine Club. Others include Nevado Huascarán (at 6768m, Peru’s highest), Pucajirca Oeste (6039m), Nevado Quitaraju (6036m) and Nevado Santa Cruz (Nevado Pucaraju; 6241m).
Situated in the tropical zone, the Cordillera Blanca stands to be affected greatly as global warming increases; there exists significant evidence that the glaciers of the Cordillera Blanca show a measurable decrease in their volume and that the snow line has receded in recent decades. Other threats to the park include litter and high-altitude grazing on endangered qeñua (Polylepis) trees. For more information about these threats, contact the Mountain Institute (Click here) in Huaraz.
Parque Nacional Huascarán
Peruvian mountaineer César Morales Arnao first suggested protecting the flora, fauna and archaeological sites of the Cordillera Blanca in the early 1960s, but it didn’t become a reality until 1975, when the national park was established. This 3400-sq-km park encompasses practically the entire area of the Cordillera Blanca above 4000m, including more than 600 glaciers and nearly 300 lakes, and protects such extraordinary and endangered species as the giant Puya raimondii plant, the spectacled bear and the Andean Condor.
Visitors to the park should bring their passports to register at the park office in Huaraz (Click here) and pay the park fee. This is S5 per person for a day visit or S60 for a one-month pass. You can also register and pay your fee at one of the control stations.
Money from fees is used to help maintain trails, pay park rangers and offset the effects of the legions of visitors to the area. It makes sense that as foreign visitors are among those frequenting the area and causing the greatest change, they should contribute to the financing of the national park with their user fees. Although it’s sometimes possible to dodge paying the park fee – because control station hours and locations vary – remember that the cheapest option isn’t always the correct one; you can always pay your fee at the office in Huaraz.
Santa Cruz Trek
This trek ascends the spectacular Quebrada Santa Cruz valley and crosses the Punta Union pass (4760m) before tumbling into Quebrada Huarípampa on the other side. Head-turning sights along the way include emerald lakes, sensational views of many of the Cordillera’s peaks, beds of brightly colored alpine wildflowers and stands of red qeñua trees. Another less thrilling sight here, as in many trekking areas, is the constant sight of cow patties dimpling the valleys and meadows. Watch your step!
The Santa Cruz is one of the most popular routes in Peru for international trekkers and it is clearly signposted for much of its length. Each day requires about 13km of hiking (between five and eight hours of hiking) and ascents ranging from 500m to 700m; the third day requires a knee-busting 900m descent.
The first and second days are the toughest, but probably the most rewarding, as they take you past many small waterfalls and a series of lakes and interconnecting marshy areas. The first,