Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [337]
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FAST FACTS
Duration: 4 days
Distance: 50km
Difficulty: easy-moderate
Start: Cashapampa (2900m)
Finish: Vaqueria (3700m)
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¡OJO!
ATTENTION! The management body for Parque Nacional Huascarán, INRENA (Instituto Nacional de Recursos Naturales; the government agency administering national parks, reserves, historical sanctuaries and other protected areas), technically requires the use of local guides for everywhere except designated recreation zones. However, at the time of research, local officials were not enforcing this rule except in the case of ice climbers, who must be accompanied by a certified guide or present their credentials from a climbing club in their home country. Still, it’s a great idea to hire a guide for almost any trip – they’re inexpensive, experienced and can share a lot of interesting information about local culture and wildlife along the way.
Ask at the Casa de Guiás (Click here) or Parque Nacional Huascarán Office (Click here) to confirm the latest requirements, and when you do contract help, do your best to hire only official guides, arrieros (mule drivers), cooks or other support for your trip – they should be able to show you an identification card indicating their membership to with Mountain Guide Association (AGM) or the High Mountain Services Association (ASAM). These personnel are trained in proper use and management of the park and they can help you most swiftly and capably in an emergency.
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On the third day, trekkers gain major bragging rights as they push over the Punta Unión pass (4760m), which appears from below at an angular notch in a seemingly unbroken rocky wall above. The panoramas from both sides of the pass are captivating. To the west lies Quebrada Santa Cruz and its lakes, while to the southeast, Quebrada Huarípampa plunges steeply down past a scattering of lakes. The descent after the notch at the pass spirals tightly down a rocky buttress toward Lagunas Morococha, past thick qeñua stands, and on to a camp at Paria (3850m).
Day four is rewarded by a quick descent in the hamlet of Huarípampa and its traditional thatched-roof Quechua houses. Guinea pigs (destined for the dinner table) can often be seen running around in shallow wooden platforms underneath the roofs. End in Vaqueria (3700m), from where you can flag down a colectivo, camión (truck) or minibus to Yungay and onto Huaraz.
The completion of a major tourist road to the Llanganuco lakes and beyond means that the trek is now shorter and can be completed in three days by acclimatized parties; however, four days allows more scope for viewing alpine flora and exploring side valleys: the 14km side-trip to Laguna Quitacocha (day two) and a spectacular valley below Nevado Quitaraju (6036m) takes five to six hours and ascends/descends 800m; the 12km steep hike (seven to eight hours, 700m ascent/descent) to Alpamayo Base Camp (South Side), also possible on day two, takes you to the climbers’ camp underneath the magnificent Nevado Alpamayo (5947m); a 10km side trip at the Quebrada Paria (Quebrada Vaqueria) on day three climbs steadily for three hours and 600m in the shadow of Nevado Chacraraju (6112m), below its very active glacier and icefall; and an 11km, four- to five-hour side trek to Quebrada Ranincuray (day four) that ascends/descends 800m rewards hikers with awesome views, great camping and access to the Lagunas Tintacocha.
The trek can also be extended beyond Vaqueria (as for the original route), following the road out and picking up the walking trail over