Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [338]
Water for cooking and drinking is available from rivers along the way (except on day three, when you’ll need to carry water on the approach to the Punta Unión pass), but be sure to boil it before drinking. You must carry your passport with you and present it at a checkpoint in Huarípampa.
Colectivo (shared transportation) taxis frequently head out from Caraz to the main trailhead at Cashapampa (S5, 1½ hours).
The trek can be done in reverse – daily colectivos from Huaraz to Vaqueria provide access to the trailhead.
Other Cordillera Blanca Treks & Hikes
While the Santa Cruz trek attracts the lion’s share of visitors, dozens of other trekking possibilities in the Cordillera Blanca supply scenery and vistas just as jaw-dropping (minus the crowds). A series of quebradas (valleys) – Ishinca, Cojup, Quilcayhuanca, Shallap and Rajucolta (listed north to south) – run parallel to each other from the area around Huaraz up into the heart of the Cordillera Blanca, and most of them have a high-altitude lake (or two) somewhere along the way; they each offer trekking opportunities ranging from one day to several, and some of the many possibilities are described below. Interested trekkers can inquire with local agencies about connecting these valley treks with high-altitude traverses, but they are generally explored individually.
Some – but not all – trails on the multiday treks listed here aren’t clearly marked yet, so it’s best to either go with a guide or have excellent reference maps on hand (Click here). Getting to some trailheads requires travel to nearby towns or along the rugged and beautiful Conchucos valley (east of the Cordillera Blanca), where a handful of ludicrously friendly indigenous towns provide basic facilities and vivid cultural experiences for the intrepid explorer (Click here). For less ambitious hikers who aren’t keen on camping or refuges, consider making a day hike out of some of the longer trips by starting early and turning back with enough time to transfer back to your hotel. You’ll need to pay the park entrance (S5) to do these hikes.
HUARAZ–WILKAHUAÍN–LAGUNA AHUAC (ONE DAY)
You can start this relatively easy and well-marked day hike to Laguna Ahuac (4560m) in Huaraz or at the Wilkahuaín Ruins (Click here). From the latter (a S15 taxi ride), it takes about four hours and makes an excellent early acclimatization trip or pleasant day trip; starting in Huaraz adds about two hours. On the ground you’ll notice furry rabbit-like vizcachas sniffing around. Looking up, you can’t miss the big mountain views of the southern end of the Cordillera Blanca.
LAGUNA CHURUP (ONE DAY)
The hamlet of Pitec (3850m), just above Huaraz is the best place to start this six-hour hike to the beautiful Laguna Churup (4450m) at the base of Nevado Churup. You can select from approaching along either the left-hand or right-hand side of the valley; most folks opt for the left approach. This day hike is often chosen as an acclimatization hike, but note the altitudes and the 600m ascent – make sure you’re ready before charging this one. A taxi from Huaraz to Pitec will cost about S30; combis for Llupa (S3, 30 minutes) leave Huaraz from the corner of Raimondi and Luzuriaga about every 30 minutes (ask to be dropped off at the path to Pitec); from there it’s a two-hour walk to Pitec.
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PICK YOUR PEAK
With 25 glaciated summits over 6000m and more than 50 over 5500m, the Cordillera Blanca is one of the most important ranges in the world for high-altitude climbers. Add to that the sheer multitude of options, generally short approaches and almost no red tape or summit fees (although you have to pay your park fee) and the appeal is obvious. While Huascarán Sur is the undisputed granddaddy and Alpamayo voted ‘most beautiful’ by climbers and photographers the world over, Pisco is certainly the most popular climb for its straightforward accessibility and moderate technical requirements.
But that may change. Among many consequences of global